




It’s always an education and a treat to be able to sample wines with some considerable bottle age when the opportunity presents itself.
It’s a myth that wine gets better the older it ages, it’s more like a Bell curve, on the left side of the curve is when the wine is released, it reaches its peak and then slides downward.
I had the opportunity to sample a few older bottles on September 29th when distributor Independence Wine & Spirits held their Luxury Italian Tasting.
It was a niche of their portfolio that included Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello, Amarone and some Italian sparklers. The tasting was held at their offices at 298 5th Avenue in midtown Manhattan.
Some of the older bottles included the 1999 Col d’Orca Brunello di Montalcino, a 1982 Fontanafedda Barolo Riserva and a 1996 Fontanafredda Barolo Vigna La Villa to name a few.
I have to admit that some of the older bottles were on the downward side of the curve, but it was a unique experience. An older bottle than held up was the 1968 Bertani Amarone which was drinking nicely, and I was able to sample five vintages of that wine.
Valpolicella is a red wine produced in the Veneto region of Italy, north of the city of Verona. It’s a blended wine primarily made with the Corvina grape varietal. Amarone is one category of Valpolicella that includes Classico, Superior and Ripasso. What makes Amarone unique is that they let the grapes dry out and concentrate the sugars. Back in the day if you ran into a red wine with a 15+% alcohol level, it was either a California Zinfandel or an Amarone but that’s not the case now.
These are big and brawny wines, many almost port like, great for a Winter night with a hearty stew but not easy to pair with other food. A couple of years back I did a wine tour of Valpolicella and visited several wineries. The Amarone I sample at those wineries were more delicate, feminine and more structured than what I was used to, much more food friendly which is what the winemakers I spoke to said they strived to produce.
Bertani is one of the most recognizable producers of Amarone and they have been producing wine for over a century and a half.
Bertani Amarone
1968
Clear light brick, sweet plums on the nose, silky, red cherry fruit with a good grip and a long finish.
1990
Clear medium brick, crushed mint and dark chocolate on the nose, chewy dark chocolate fruit, nice grip with cocoa notes on the long finish.
2010
Clear medium brick, crushed red fruit, mint and graphite on the nose, chewy and plummy ending with crisp acidity.
2011
Clear medium brick, toasty dark fruit and white pepper on the nose, chewy and peppery ending with firm tannins.
2012
Clear medium brick, smokey plum on the nose, toasty chocolate fruit ending with tight tannins.

























































































