Author: Bruno Donaggio

Boston Wine Expo 2017: Seminars

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On February 18-19 I attended the 26th Boston Wine Expo in Boston Massachusetts which is about a four hour drive north of New York City. I attended both days, Saturday and Sunday and this was my sixth year attending this event. It’s always one of the best wine expos in the country. The event featured over 1,800 wines from over 200 wineries, seminars, vendors and cooking demonstrations. The event benefits the Floating Hospital at Tufts Medical Center’s Summer Camp Program for Children with Disabilities.

As in past years, the event was held at the Seaport World Trade Center and Seaport Hotel at 200 Seaport Boulevard, a short tram ride from the South Street bus terminal and this year as in last the weather cooperated and it was a beautiful afternoon.

 

American Rhône:  The Range of the Rhône Rangers

2015 Gramercy Cellars Picpoul “Los Oidos Vineyard” (Walla Walla)

Very light yellow, pineapple and grapefruit on the nose, lime notes at first followed with floral notes and lime  on the finish.

2013 Bonny Doon Cigare Blanc White Blend (Arroyo Seco)

A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc. Medium gold, honey and damp earth and crushed rocks on the nose, full honeyed fruit with some botrytis notes, moderate acids, long finish, some heat.

2014 Tablas Creek Rousssanne (Paso Robles)

Medium gold with notes of ginger on the nose, candy and sea air on the fruit, moderate acids.

2013 Tenet GSM Blend (Columbia Valley)

A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mouverdre. Dark red to black, perfume of pine and slate, chunky, juicy with oak and bitter plums on the finish.

2014 Sans Liege Groundwork Mourvedre (Santa Barbara Highlands)

100% Mourvedre. Dark red with a black rim, overripe vegetable on the nose, concentrated, dusty, black cherry and oak on the fruit, nice grip at the end.

2014 Stolpman Vineyards Estate Grenache (Ballard Canyon)

Dark black in color, feminine perfume of red leather and cherry, big cherry fruit with the tannin tightening up at the end for a good grip, good balance.

 

Vertical of Guigal’s Chateau d’Ampuis Côte-Rôtie

1995: Dark brick with a brown rim, cooked black fruit on the nose, tight and tart, brown leather on the tannic finish.

1997: Dark brick with a brown rim, old leather and roasted meat on the nose, dark plum and tight, crisp acids on the finish.

2001: I got a good amount of sediment on the pour, first bottle corked so not much to go around. Brick in color, cooked vegetable and crisp bacon on the nose with big mint notes on the finish.

2003: Dark brick with an amber rim, ripe dark plum and bbq meat on the nose, silky black fruit, firm grip, mint notes, good structure.

2005: Dark red to black, roasted meat, spice and earth on the nose, tight and smoky with crisp acids.

2007: Black with an amber robe, roasted meat and plastic on the nose, juicy fruit followed with firm tannins.

2009: Black in color, roasted meat on the nose, tight and concentrated with the fruit dropping at the end.

2012: Dark red with a purple rim, dusty roast meat on the nose, very tight with asparagus on the finish, a little unbalanced.

Horizontal of Three Guigal Côte-Rôtie

1998 Brune et Blonde: Dark amber, perfume of mint and roast meat, starts tight turns silky with meat notes on the finish.

1998 Chateau d’Ampuis: Medium amber, smoky dark black cherry on the nose, tight with mouth tightening tannins and acids.

1998 La Landonne: Black, amber rim, complex nose of earth, tar and ripe black fruit, concentrated and silky with dark earth notes on the fruit, firm acids.

 

Vine & Brine: Terroir Pairing With Island Creek Oysters

2015 Domaine Vincent Careme “Cuvee T” paired with an Ichabod Flats oyster.

Medium yellow, sea air and sauerkraut on the nose, crisp fizz, lemon curd on the fruit. Oyster was salty.

2015 Domaine Paul Buisse Touraine Sauvignon paired with an Island Creek oyster.

Light yellow, mowed grass on the nose, juicy, grassy, tart, good balance.

2015 Le Roi des Pierres Sancerre Blanc paired with a Wellfleet oyster.

Very light yellow, melons, grass on the nose, crisp and grassy. Very salty oyster and muddy.

2014 Domaine Vrignaud Le Champreaux Chablis paired with a Mallard oyster.

Medium yellow with greenish tints, toast and barnyard on the nose, tight lime on the fruit. Sweet and balanced oyster.

2012 Clos du Gaimont La Monaco Vouvray paired with a Malabar oyster.

Moderate to dark gold, honeyed bouquet, juicy pineapple, ginger and melon on the fruit, low acids, a fat wine. Oyster was low salt and muddy.

 

 

 

Gewürztraminer On Long Island

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Gewürztraminer is one of the classic noble grapes and is known for its distinctive aromatic and pungent aromas of lychee, pineapple, ginger and rose petals to name a few.

It has a limited popularity and its difficulty in production keeps it with limited acreage but it’s been grown out on Long Island since the industry began and most wineries bottle of version of it either dry, off-dry or as a dessert wine. I still have a half bottle of a 1993 late harvest Gewürztraminer in my fridge from Palmer Vineyards that I bought in 1995.

This past rainy and sleety Sunday afternoon I took a drive out to the North Fork wine country to try some.

 

2015 One Women Vineyards: 5195 Old North Road, Southold. 

Small tasting room off of Highway 48 on the far Eastern North Fork before the town of Greenport.

About 250 cases produced, greenish tint, lemon-lime, earth notes on the nose, off-dry with cotton candy and kiwi on the fruit. Good balance, moderate acidity.

***

2012 Lenz Winery: 38355 Route 25, Peconic.

One of the original wineries on the North Fork known for its Merlots.

About 400 cases produced, steel fermented, dark yellow in color, closed nose of petroleum, bone dry with lychee and lime notes on the fruit, moderate acidity on the moderate to long, spicy finish.

***

2013 Coffee Pot Cellars: 31855 Main Road, Cutchogue.

Small production winery with a tasting room off the main road offering handcrafted beeswax products as well as their wines. When you walk in, you’ll be greeted by Beasley the Pug.1

174 cases made, about 6% Riesling added, dark gold in color, petroleum and white flowers on the nose, crisp, full spicy fruit with good acidity on the moderate to long finish.

 

 

Vino 2017 Superbowl Party

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On Monday the 6th annual Italian wine trade show event known as Vino 2017 was held in Manhattan. The event was organized by the Italian Trade Commission which is a government agency that promotes trade between Italian companies and foreign markets. The Grand Tasting showcased “extraordinary Italian wines” from 120 producers serving 600+ wines in addition to several seminars.

On the previous Sunday evening I attended the Superbowl viewing party they held for journalists and venders at the same venue. That event featured over forty Italian wines and not so typical Superbowl snacks such as risotto with porcini mushrooms, orecchiette with broccoli rabe, manicotti and assorted salamis and cheeses.

Both events were held at the Spring Studios event space at 50 Varick Street in the SoHo district of Manhattan.

There were sparking, white and red wines from all over the Italian peninsula from small producers and labels. Some of what I sampled:

 

2015 La Sclusa Ribolla Gialla: Light yellow with green tints, white flowers on the nose, good acidity.

2015 Castel Sallegg Pinot Bianco: Light green tint, fresh flowers on the nose, moderate fruit with nice acidity.

 

2014 Grillo Iole Schioppettino: Medium to light red, tarry cigar box on the nose, sour cherry notes on the firm fruit.

2013 Torleanzi Primitivo Di Manduria “Tyrannus”: Medium red, sweet cherry earth on the nose, tight leather fruit, firm finish.

2013 Agricola Brigha “Ambèli”: Medium red, cooked fruit, pencil shavings on the nose, bitter leather on the fruit.

2012 L’Astemia Pentita Barolo “Cannubi”: Brick in color, pencil shavings on the nose, silky red fruit and leather, feminine and delicate, moderate finish.

2011 Le Ginestre Barolo: Medium brick, classic nose of tar and cigar box, moderate chewy fruit, firm finish.

2009 Fattoria Lavacchio Chianti Rufina “Ludié”: Medium red, cooked vegetable and bitter cherry on the nose, tight sweet cherry fruit, dusty finish.

2012 Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Vigna Paronza”: Medium red, sweet tar and pencil shavings on the nose, sweet bitter cherry and leather on the balanced finish. One of my favorites of the night.

2012 Villa Mattielli Amarone: Medium red, ripe red fruit on the nose, chewy red fruit, licorice and bitter cherry on the finish, low acids.

2014 Villa Mattielli Valpolicella “Rippaso”: Medium red, sweet cherry on the nose with cherry red leather on the balanced fruit.

2014 Marchese Antinori Guado Al Tasso “Il Bruciato”: Medium to dark red, crushed dark flowers on the nose, cherry red leather on the fruit, bitter cherry notes on the balanced finish.

2013 Torrevento Primitivo “Since 1913”: Medium to dark red, warm earthy nose, chunky and thick with juicy black fruit, moderate tannins.

 

 

Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Fest 2017

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The 8th annual Beer, Bourbon & BBQ festival kicked off its multi city tour this past Saturday, January 28th in Manhattan. Their motto is, Brew it, Taste it. Sip it. Pork it. It was a day of “down home Southern fried good time” to benefit the Spirit of Hope children foundation. There was plenty of beer, cider, whiskey and bbq for the crowd in addition to a DJ, cigars and beer games.  The event was held this year as in last at The Tunnel event space at 608 West 28th Street on the far West side of Manhattan.

After feasting on ribs, chicken and pork belly it was time to try several ryes, bourbons and ciders. Of the ciders that I tried, Angry Orchard wooden spoon was the most interesting, bone dry with wood notes on the finish.

 

Seminar: High End Whiskeys

Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Single Barrel-Barrel Proof

Booker’s Bourbon Barrel Strength

Wild Turkey Bourbon Master’s Keep 17 Year

Bib & Tucker Bourbon

Jefferson’s Bourbon Ocean Aged

Sagamore Spirit Rye

 

 

Union Des Grands Cru De Bordeaux 2017: Philadelphia

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The Union des Grands Cru des Bordeaux is a French organization established in 1973 to promote and introduce the Cru wines of Bordeaux. These are the top-tier of the wine hierarchy of the 10,000 Chateau in the 57 appellations of the Bordeaux wine region. Every January they travel to the United States to various cities conducting tastings for the trade and consumer showcasing the current vintage that’s being released. This year that would be the 2014 vintage. While the wines are still young at this stage, it’s a great opportunity to taste how the that particular vintage was.

In New York City they hold their trade and consumer tastings on the third Monday in January. The last year I was able to attend was in 2014 and I would not have been able to attend the event this year. Fortunately for me this year, for the first time they held a tasting on Sunday afternoon, January 22 in Philadelphia. I did not want to miss this opportunity so it was time for a road trip to Philadelphia to visit historical sites such as the Liberty Bell and Constitution Hall, eat a cheesesteak for lunch then spend the rest of the afternoon with some good Bordeaux. The tasting was held at The Rittenhouse hotel located at 210 West Rittenhouse Square.

I didn’t do research on the 2014 to influence my tasting. No one would have confused this tasting with a tasting of Napa Valley Cabernet. After trying most of the wines, I would have guessed that 2014 was a very cool and wet vintage for Bordeaux. In general the wines had pretty aromas but tight fruit with sour cherry notes, crisp acids and mouth coating tannins. I know the wines are way too young now and would love to sample in ten years but they are hard as nails now.

 

Pomerol

Chateau La Cabanne: Medium red with a brick rim, sweet red candy and cooked asparagus on the nose, tight and dusty, finish drops.

Chateau Clinet: Dark red, perfume of sweet fruit and fresh herbs, crisp acid, finish drops a bit.

Chateau Gazin: Dark red, sweet fruit with barnyard notes on the nose, silky, moderate fruit, moderate finish.

Pauillac

Chateau Clerc Milon: Dark red with a purple rim, pretty perfume of violets, tight with oak notes on the fruit with firm tannins and acids at the end.

Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste: Dark red, turpentine on the nose, tight.

Chateau Lynch-Bages: Black red, purple rim, crushed black fruit on the nose, tight, firm finish, some heat at the end.

Chateau D’Armailhac: Dark red to black, warm fresh herbs on the nose, silky red cherry fruit, nice balance. One of my favorites of the night.

Margaux

Chateau Cantenac Brown: Dark red, crushed dark fruit on the nose, tight and tart.

Chateau Desmirail: Dark red with a sweet perfume with notes of tree bark, tight, tannin with citrus acids.

Saint-Julien

Chateau Beychevelle: Dark red with a perfume of sandalwood, tight, with oak notes on the silky fruit, smooth tannins on the moderate finish.

Chateau Gruaud Larose: Medium red, smoky dark fruit on the nose with oak notes on the fruit.

Chateau Talbot: Black in color, crushed black fruit and mint on the nose, nice balance.

Chateau Leoville Poyferre: Dark red to black, nice perfume of violets, silky red cherry fruit followed by a mouthful of tannin.

Chateau Gloria: Dark red to black, toasted notes on the nose, tight, concentrated fruit.

Saint-Estephe

Chateau Phelan Segur: Dark purple, burnt wood notes on the nose, tight, tart.

Chateau Cos Lobory: Dark purple, dusty, crushed black fruit on the nose, dusty, oak notes on the fruit and finish.

Saint-Emilion

Clos Fourtet: Dark red to black with a purple rim, closed nose of tree bark, red cherry fruit, moderate finish, crisp acids.

Chateau Canon La Gaffellier: Dark red, perfume of violets and Asian spices, silky toasty fruit, moderate to long finish.

Chateau Canon: Dark red, purple rim, closed nose, tight, moderate fruit, balanced finish.

Pessac-Leognan

Chateau Haut-Bailly: Medium red, tar and pencil shavings on the nose, tar notes on the tight fruit.

Chateau Malartic: Black with a purple rim, smoky cooked vegetables on the nose.

Chateau Pape Clement: Dark red to black, perfume of sweet fruit with concentrated red fruit, moderate finish.

Chateau Olivier: Dark red with red melon and tea notes on the nose, red cherry and earth on the moderate finish.

Haut-Medoc

Chateau Coufran: Dark red, closed nose, sour cherry fruit, tannic.

Chateau La Lagune: Dark red, red cherry, pencil shavings on the nose, tart red cherry fruit, mouth coating tannin.

Chateau Cantemerle: Dark red, purple rim, chocolate on the nose, tight fruit, big tannins on the finish.

Chateau de Camensac: Dark purple, sweet perfume of cigar box, moderate fruit, nice grip.

Listrac-Medoc

Chateau Clarke: Dark red to black, barnyard notes on the nose, dense, silky fruit, nice grip at the end finishing with mouth coating tannin.

 

 

Albany Chef’s Food & Wine Fest

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The Albany Chef’s Food & Wine Festival; Wine & Dine for the Arts, was held January 12-14. It’s an annual three day festival funding the support and preservation of the local not-for-profit arts community. The festival featured food from local restaurants, wines, spirits and New York State craft beers. I attended the Saturday afternoon Grand Tasting which also had a bloody mary completion and a seminar on terroir in Oregon.

Albany is the sixth largest city in the state of New York and the seat of the state government. It’s about a 3 hour drive due north of New York City.

The event was held in downtown Albany at the Albany Hilton hotel located at 40 Lodge Street.

 

Seminar

“It’s Willamette Dammit! The Dirt On Oregon” An interesting tasting with Jim Bernau, founder of Willamette Valley Vineyards. 2012 Pinot Noir from five different terroir sites.

Tualatin Hills: Dark red, dusty sour cherry on the nose, tart cherry fruit.

Chehalem Mountains: Dark brick in color, crushed black fruit on the nose, tight juicy red fruit with citrus fruit notes at the end.

Yamhill-Carlton: Dark red, sweet, red cherry fruit, moderate tannin and acid. Easy drinking.

Eola-Amity Hills: Dark red, closed nose of fresh herbs, mouth watering acid and fruit.

Salem Hills: Dark red, toast and minerals on the nose, tart, crushed rocks, tart red cherry on the fruit.

 

 

Chianti In Chelsea

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This year is the 300th anniversary of what is considered the first wine region in the world. In 1716, the Grand Duke Cosimo III set the borders of the Black Rooster production zone for Chianti Classico. The “Classico” zone is one of the eight sub-zones of Chianti in Tuscany.

This past Sunday, Pierre Loti wine bar on 258 West 15th Street in Manhattan held a Chianti fundraiser/tasting for the Wheeling Forward organization. It was a sit-down tasting of nine Chianti Classico and Riserva with commentary by wine educator, Robin Kelly O’Connor.

 

2014 Castellare Chianti Classico

Medium red with a purple rim, toast and a sweet perfume of violets on the nose, tight with light fruit and low tannins and acids.

2014 Santo Stefano Chianti Classico

Dark red with a light brick rim, crushed black fruit and wood notes on the nose, dusty black cherry fruit with moderate tannins and acid.

2013 Lorano Chianti Classico

Medium red, purple rim, big perfume of red cherry and baking spices, moderate red cherry fruit, balanced tannin and acids on the finish. Very drinkable.

2012 Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico

Medium red, big perfume of tar and sweet cherry, moderate red cherry fruit upfront and finishes with lip smacking tannins.

2013 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva “Montonello”

Dark red with a pretty perfume of tar and violets, big black cherry fruit with firm tannins on the finish.

2013 Castello di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva

Medium red with a brick rim with tar, leather and pencil shavings on the nose, moderate juicy fruit, sour cherry notes on the finish, moderate tannin and acid.

2013 Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva “Agostino Petri”

Medium red, toasty oak notes on the nose with red and black cherry notes on the fruit, good balance.

2012 Rocca Della Macie Chianti Classico Riserva “Famiglia Zingarelli”

Dark red with a slightly closed nose of black fruit and spice, chunky red fruit with bitter cherry notes and a nice balance of tannins and acids on the finish.

2012 Vecchie Terre di Montefili Chianti Classico Riserva

Medium red with a perfume of tar, graphite, tight fruit finishing with firm tannins and tart fruit.

 

 

 

Better Together Gala

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Another holiday party for the season. On Sunday I attended the Better Together Gala benefitting the National Breast Cancer Foundation. It was an afternoon of wine, cocktails, fashion shows and general partying for a good cause.

The event was held at Pier A Harbor House, a recently renovated pier house literally located on the most southern tip of Manhattan island. If you walked out the door and stepped right you were on the East side of the island, step left and you were on the West side. It’s a huge, multi level bar/restaurant/event space over looking New York harbor that should get very busy when the weather warms up.

In between fashion shows I kept myself busy with Finger Lakes Riesling, Chardonnay and the occasional cocktail.

 

Wines

2015 Wagner Vineyards Riesling

2013 Fox Run Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay “Kaiser Vineyard”

 

Cocktails

Better Together Signature Drink: Vodka, fresh lime, triple sec, cranberry juice, simple syrup

Positively Pink: Old Scout, strawberry, sweet vermouth, lime

Breast In Show: Bourbon, Angostura bitters, orange bitters, simple syrup

Second Base: Tequila, fresh lemon, ginger, crème de cassis

Diane: Teeling whiskey, fresh lime, ginger

Think Pink: Vodka, ginger, lime

 

 

Syrah On Long Island

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Syrah (Shiraz in Australia), is a varietal found to be indigenous to France. It’s used as a backbone grape for many big and bold wines from the Cote du Rhone and Australia as well as grown in other regions. I remember at one time it was thought it would be the next standout varietal in California but that never panned out and there was a lot of Cali Syrah being sold on those discount mail-order wine sites these past few years. Out East it’s not a big player but there are a few acres of it planted and on this Sunday afternoon I sampled a few. In the cooler growing season in this wine region, I wasn’t expecting big and bold wines.

 

2014 Pindar Vineyards Syrah  37645 Route 25, Peconic.

Pindar Vineyards which opened in the 1980’s is the largest vineyard on Long Island with over 500 acres with 17 varietals planted. It’s one of the more popular stops on the east end wine route and the tasting room was crowded even on this quiet, post holiday Sunday afternoon. It had been awhile since I stopped by this tasting room.

Black in color with roast meat and black licorice on the nose, medium body with sour black fruit and crisp acids. Felt a bit unfinished.

 

 

2014 Bedell Cellars Syrah  36225 Main Road, Cutchogue.

Winery with vines planted in the 1980’s and now owned by film executive Michael Lynne.

Dark red to black in color with a purple rim, roasted meat, dirt on the nose, tight, tart, concentrated dark fruit, neutral flavors with firm tannin at the end.

 

 

2014 Clovis Point Winery Syrah  1935 Main Road, Jamesport.

One of the newer wineries out east with 10 acres of farm land, named after pre-historic native arrow and spear points found on Long Island. One of the wineries that serve their wines in proper wine glasses.

Dark red with a purple rim, notes of asparagus and roast meat on the nose, concentrated and dusty ending with a mouth tightening tannin.

 

 

Holiday Spirits Bazaar

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It’s the time of the year for the Holiday parties. This past Saturday evening I attended the 7th annual Holiday Spirits Bazaar held at the Astor Center event space on 399 Lafayette Street in Manhattan.

It was a night of holiday cocktails, punches and nogs made with gin, tequila, rum, brandy, scotch, bourbon, aquavit and cordials such as Drambuie along with many types of botanicals. Generally, a nog is made with dairy (milk or cream), sugar and eggs while a punch with fruit or fruit juices and of course, alcohol. The event was set in two themed rooms, the Whiskey Tavern and the Sparking Spirits Parlor along with reindeer, wreaths and tinsel. It was very festive.

 

Punches, Nogs and cocktails I sampled:

 

Fitzgerald’s Roaring Twenties Punch

Sleigh Bell Punch

Apple Ginger Punch

Rum Raison Punch

Merry Mulled Punch

Arak My World

DeLord Of The Rings

La Loba’s Rompope

Northern Lights

The Big Apple Cider

Rosy Cheeks

Spiced Old Fashioned

A Crafted Egg Nog