Author: Bruno Donaggio

Chardonnay With Some Oak On Long Island

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This past Sunday afternoon I took a drive out to the  wineries on the North Fork of Long Island. It was a beautiful day with moderate temperatures and no humidity, the perfect day to be at a winery sitting on the deck with a glass of wine in hand while looking at a sea of vines with a blue sky above.

Chardonnays are the star of the whites out on the island and my focus this afternoon was to sample Chardonnay that had saw some oak treatment to it whether during fermentation or aging. .

 

2013 Laurel Lake Vineyards Chardonnay “Reserve” (North Fork)  3165 Main Road, Laurel, NY

Estate bottled and 100% fermented and aged in oak. Old school Chard, gold in color, honey-peach on the nose, spicy cinnamon and mouth filling buttery fruit, oak notes throughout the finish.

 

2014 Bedell Cellars Chardonnay (North Fork)   36225 Main Road, Cutchogue, NY

Barrel fermented and steel aged, yellow with greenish tints, lemon-lime custard on the nose, medium fruit with clean, tart lime notes on the finish.

 

2012 Lieb Cellars “No Label” Chardonnay (North Fork)  13050 Oregon Road, Cutchogue, NY

Only available at the tasting room, partially barrel fermented, yellow with greenish tints, bubblegum and tropical fruits on the nose, mango notes followed by toast on the fruit with firm acids on the finish.

 

 

 

Pig Island 2016

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This past Saturday afternoon, September 10th I attended the 7th annual Pig Island Porktacular BBQ festival.

Pig Island was created in 2010 to support New York pig farmers with hogs sourced directly from small farms. This year the pork was provided by Flying Pig Farms in Shushan New York.

The outdoor festival was held on the waterfront at Erie Basin Park in Red Hook, Brooklyn which is surrounded with plenty of reminders of its industrial past with monolithic cranes and rotting piers.

Over 25 Chefs served pork-centric dishes for us to sample along with craft beer, artisan spirits and cider, and the beer and cider came in handy since this Saturday was brutally hot, with temperatures atypical for this time of year in the mid 90’s (34°). I have to give Kudos to the pitmasters who practiced their craft over a hot grill in these temperatures.

 

 

Wine Fest At The Golden Nugget

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On Saturday August 27th I attended the International Wine Festival at the Golden Nugget casino. The Golden Nugget is one of a handful of casinos in the marina district a couple of miles off the boardwalk in Atlantic City New Jersey. They have held a wine fest in August for the past several years the theme of which was Cal-Ital which showcased wines from Italy and Italian heritage wines from California. This year the event was changed to an international wine fest with wines from several new and old world countries.

Atlantic City has been going through some tough times lately with several casinos closing down and the city on the verge of bankruptcy. But on this Saturday night, the city and the casinos were alive with gamblers and partiers.

The event had plenty of wines to keep everyone busy for the night along with a live band and a buffet table. Not as many Cali wines as I would have liked but Italy provided a nice selection.

 

Some of what I sampled:

2015 Chateau D’Esclans “Whispering Angel’ Rosé (Provence). Light pink, strawberry on the nose, tart strawberry fruit.

2013 La Crema Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Yellow with green tints, toasty tropical fruit on the nose with toast and tropical fruit, crisp finish.

2015 Famille Perrin Cotes du Rhone Blanc (Rhone). Light yellow, lime and slate on the nose, clean and crisp with lime notes on the finish.

2014 Domaine Ferret Pouilly Fusse (Burgundy). Toasted oak on the nose with toasty, lime notes on the fruit.

 

2013 Renwood Old Vine Zinfandel (Amador County). Medium red with crushed black fruit on the nose with spicy red fruit.

2013 Chloe N° 249 (North Coast). Medium red with warm, smoky dark berries on the nose, jammy and juicy.

2014 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Medium to dark red, green herbs on the nose, tight and concentrated, medium to long finish.

2013 Robert Mondavi “Maestro” (Napa Valley). 50th anniversary bottling, Bordeaux blend, primarily Merlot, medium red, green herbs on the nose, tight with mouth filling tannin.

2013 La Crema Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Light red, cherry nose, tight with smoky, cherry fruit.

2014 The Prisoner Wine Co. Zinfandel “Saldo” (California). Medium to dark red, stewed red fruit on the nose with juicy cherry fruit balanced with firm tannin on the finish.

2013 Penfolds  Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 407” (Australia). Dark red to black, close nose of cherry-mint, firm balance.

2013 Penfolds Cabernet-Shiraz “Bin 389” (Australia). Dark red to black with crushed black berry on the nose, cherry fruit followed by firm acids.

2012 Masi “Campofiorin” (Veneto). Medium red with sweet blueberry and tar on the nose, tight bitter cherry fruit.

2011 Masi Amarone “Costasera” (Veneto). Medium red, forest floor on the nose, tight and tannic with bitter cherry fruit.

2013 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany). Light red, earthy, barnyard notes on the nose, deeper fruit than what the color suggests, nice balance.

2011 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany). Medium red with cherry leather notes on the nose and fruit.

2012 Castello di Banfi Chianti Classico “Riserva” (Tuscany). Medium red with fresh herbs and tar on the nose, tight with moderate light fruit, leather notes on the finish.

2011 Castello di Banfi Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany). Medium to dark red, crushed dark berries on the nose with mint undertones with dusty, silky red fruit, great balance.

2013 Tenute del Cabreo (Tuscany). Cabernet, Sangiovese blend, medium to dark red, crushed black berries on the nose, tight and tart finish.

2013 Nozzle Chianti Classico “Riserva” (Tuscany). Medium red, violets on the nose, dusty red fruit with silky tannins.

2011 Tenute La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany). Medium red, sweet nose, silky fruit with bitter red cherry fruit.

2013 Ramon Bilbao  Tempranillo “Limited Edition” (Rioja). Dark red with leather and tar on the nose, tart cherry on the fruit.

2013 Argento Bonarda (Argentina).  Dark red, sweet red fruit on the nose with green herb notes on the fruit.

2012 Carmen Petite Sirah “Gran Reserva” (Chile). Medium red, herbs on the nose with chunky, dusty fruit.

2013 Famille Perrin Chateauneuf du Pape (Rhone). Medium red. fresh herbs and tar on the nose, tight and brambly on the firm finish.

2012 Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques “Moulin a Vent” (Beaujolais).Medium to light red, closed nose of crushed blueberries.rambly on the firm finish.

 

 

Harvest East End 2016

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This past Saturday, August 20th I attended the 7th annual Dan’s Harvest East End food and wine event. It is the last of the trifecta of foodie events held on Long Island presented by Dan’s Paper and the Long Island Wine Council.

The event showcased North Fork Long Island wine and food with local wineries and restaurants in attendance.  It was hosted by Iron Chef’s cookbook author and restaurateur, Geoffrey Zakaria and featuring emcee Joshua Wesson, Sommelier and founder of Best Cellars.

The event was held in Cutchogue on the North Fork of Long Island under the big tents at the McCall vineyard and ranch.

All of the local North Fork wineries were at the event pouring their wines along with several beer and spirit vendors. A trend that I noticed this year was that many of the wineries released a Viognier, some of which where better than others

It seemed to me that they cut back on resources than in the previous years, no live music and much less food stalls.

 

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Secret Summer Garden Party

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This past Sunday on August 14th, I attended the second annual Secret Summer garden party. Hosted by RAPT NY, Bespoke Solutions and Highlife Productions, it was a “farm to bar” cocktail festival serving cocktails made with premium liquors using responsibly sourced herbs and greens from Farm One hydroponic garden as well Swedish cider from Rekorderlig and Tiger beer.

Live music was provided by the tuba playing band of Lucky Chops, the Coyote and Crow duo and songs by Ida Blue. Additional live performances by wandering ballerinas and aerialists with some ping-pong tables thrown in.

The event was held at ivy-covered Foundry event space across the East River from Manhattan at 42-38 Ninth Street in the industrial waterfront area of Queens at the foot of the Queensborough bridge.

The New York area was in the grip of a heat wave that weekend and the outdoor patio was steaming at start time but fortunately the indoor tastings rooms were cool enough and temperatures moderated as the sun set. It was a fun Sunday of cocktails, people and entertainment.

 

The cocktails (You were supposed to eat the garnish)

The Beetnik

Finlandia Vodka, Market Beetroot, House Made Allspice Falernum, Fresh Lemon, Red Veined Sorrel.

Doc Hollywood

Butter Washed Old Forester Bourbon, Toasted Pecan Sarsaparilla, Micro Bubble Soda, Amaranth.

The Shoemaker

Gentleman Jack Whiskey, Chambord, Mountain Huckleberry & Ginger Syrup, Fresh Lemon, Assam Black Tea, Market Berries and Shiso.

Hart’s Desire

Herradura Silver tequila, Market cantaloupe, Vanilla Bean Agave, Fresh Meyer Lemon, House Made Yuzu Bitters, Provencal Foam, Hibiscus Aviators.

Churchhill Downs

Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Cinnamon Basil Steeped Honey, House Made Bergamont Bitters, Purple Ruffles & Peppermint

 

 

 

Cider Feast 2016

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This past Saturday, August 8th, Food Karma Projects and Cook Out NYC presented this years Cider Feast cookout.

Food Karma Projects is a producer of specialty food and craft beverage events throughout the New York area. Created by NYC restaurateur Jimmy Carbone (Jimmy’s N° 43), they throw several bbq/beverage events during the Summer.

This event featured over a dozen regional, national and international cider producers pouring their ciders along with food on the grill including sliders from Schnack Burgers and tacos from Jimmy’s N° 43. It was held at the Solar One event space on the waterfront and under the FDR drive at 24-20 FDR Drive in Manhattan.

It looked like the event might have been a wash-out, at start time a storm hit, but that soon passed and the sun came out and the event went on as scheduled.

 

Some of the ciders I sampled:

Brooklyn Cider House “Half Sour” (New York). A trio of cider from NY State apples, very light yellow, very crisp with nice apple notes.

Brooklyn Cider House “Kinda Dry” (New York). Light yellow, crisp with champagne like fizz, easy drinking.

Brooklyn Cider House “Bone Dry” (New York). On tap, slightly cloudy, bone dry and tart

Doc’s Draft “Gold Rush” (New York). 100% Goldrush apples, light yellow, light body, crisp with ripe vegetable notes on the finish.

Hudson Valley Farmhouse Cider “Traditional” (New York). On tap, clear light amber, bone dry with funky notes.

Hudson Valley Farmhouse Cider “Scrumpy” (New York). On tap, unfiltered, cloudy amber, dry with some chewy fruit.

Big Apple Hard Cider “Brooklyn Brew” (New York). On tap, dark amber, sweet with cotton candy and apple pie spice notes.

Indian Ladder Farmstead Pear Cider (New York). On tap, cloudy light yellow, tart finish with some dried herb notes.

Indian Ladder Farmstead Barrel Aged Cider (New York). Light yellow with very light fruit flavors.

Shacksbury “Semi-Dry” (Vermont). In a can, clear, apply with some funk on the finish.

Shacksbury “Lost and Found” (Vermont). A blend of lost apples foraged in the Champlain Valley of Vermont, clear and dry with some tannin on the finish.

Virtue Cider “Michigan Brut” (Michigan). Light yellow with citrus notes on the finish.

Virtue Cider “The Mitten” (Michigan). Bourbon barrel aged, green apple notes with a very crisp finish.

E.Z. Orchards Cider “Hawks Haus” (Oregon). Floral nose, bone dry, crisp with light apple flavors.

Urban Farm Fermentory “Ol Cranny” (Maine). Cranberried Cidah (their spelling), dark copper color, bone dry and very crisp with pixie stick flavors on the finish.

Urban Farm Fermentory “Baby Jimmy” (Maine). Oak barrel aged Cidah, 100% wild yeast, light yellow, slightly cloudy.

Austin Eastciders Hopped Cider (Texas). Medium amber, dry, tannic with green fruit on the finish, feels unbalance.

Fanjul Sidra Natural (Spain). Cloudy, tight and tart, funky with some tannin on the finish.

Cidre Fermier “Brut” (France). Copper color, fizzy, crisp with green asparagus notes on the finish.

Le Brun Cidre de Bretagne “Brut” (France). Medium yellow, fizzy, crisp, green apple notes, very crisp finish.

Le Brun Cidre “Organic” (France). Medium amber, finishes with some sweetness to it.

Aval Cidre (France). Tight and crisp and very funky.

Aspall English Draft Cider “Demi-Sec” (England). Apply, off dry but not sweet.

 

 

Chefs & Champagne 2016

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This past Saturday, July 23th I attended the 26th annual James Beard Foundation’s Chefs and Champagne Summer tasting party. The event which raises funds for the philanthropic work of the Foundation, featured over 40 Chefs serving food many from JBF awarding winning restaurants. This years honoree was New Orleans Chef and restaurateur John Besh.

This event was held under the big tents at Wöllfer Estate Vineyards on 183 Sagg Road in Sagaponick, Long Island, just East of the town of Bridgehampton.

This year the free-flowing Champagne was sponsored by Baron de Rothschild which poured a NV Rosé, a NV Brut and a NV Blanc de Blanc. The wines were provided by Wöllfer Vineyards, beer from Goose Island and the Long Island Beer Co., and spirits by Tito’s Vodka.

It was a brutally hot day that cooled off nicely when the sun set, and my Kudos to the cooks that were manning the grills in all that heat. It was also a day of competing social events with several parties being held on this Saturday afternoon including Dan’s Taste of Two Forks which I felt took a little of the thunder out of this event. Still, it was an enjoyable afternoon of Champagne and tasty bites.

 

Some of what I sampled:

Roxanne Spruance: Fossil Farms Pork Belly with Nasturtium, Black Sesame and Cocoa Nibs

Christopher Cipollone: Madai Snapper Crudo with Avocado, Flowers and Farro

Angie Mar: Tomahawk Rib-Eye with Cherry-Garlic Compote

Cédric Vongerichten: Chilled Peekytoe Crab with Sesame Emulsion, Dukkah Spice, Avocado and Basil

Jonah Miller: Basque Dog, Chistorra Sausage with Piquillo Mostardo and Aioli

Dean Jones Max: Nantucket Oysters with Uni Vinaigrette

Julian Medina: Tacos de Pato; Fossil Farms Duck Carnitos with Charred Habanero-Tamarind Salsa and Micro Greens

Alex Bois: Smoke and Wood Bread; Local Flours with Whole Grains, Applewood Smoke Barley Malt, Roasted Shagbark Hickory

Tim Cushman: Kanpachi Sashimi with Vietnamese Mignonette, Fried Shallots, Thai Basil

Paul Kahan, Perry Hendrix: Grilled Octopus with Sumac

Damien O’Donnell: Montauk Fluke Crudo with Tomatillo Relish, Blue Corn Chips and Avocado Crema

Glenn Olsson, Marcus Widell: Shrimp Skagen 2.0

Anthony Lamas: Tuna “Old Fashioned” with Bluegrass Soy Bourbon Broth, Ginger, Pineapple and Orange

Eric Gabrynowicz: Bristol Bay Sockeye Salmon with Gold Bar Squash. Tarragon, Tomato Confit and Corn

Brian Cheewing: Local Spicy Octopus and Corn Salad with Calabrian Chiles and Micro Cilantro

Maille Mustard: Watermelon-Feta Salad with Maille Mustard

Jiho Kim: “Ants On A Log”, Pumpernickel Cake with Rum-Raison Reduction and Peanut Butter Custard

Pichet Ong: Valrhona Chocolate with Cherry, Honey and Saffron

Alina Martell: Profiteroles with Strawberries and Cream

 

 

Uncorked Wine Fest New York

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This past Saturday afternoon, July 16th I attend the Uncorked Wine Festival which was held at the Metropolitan Pavilion located on 125 West 18th street in Manhattan.

This wine fest was one of several Uncorked wine fests held throughout the country. They are fun wine tasting events and this one featured over 50 wineries, food trucks and music.

While the wines were of mid-level quality for the most part, there was plenty of it and the crowd all seemed to be having a good time on this Saturday afternoon.

 

Some of what I sampled:

NV Tattinger Brut Rosé

NV Bruno Paillard Brut Premiere Cuvee

2015 Jolie Folle Provence Rosé

2015 Starmont Sauvignon Blance

2014 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Chardonnay

2014 Michael Chiarlo Gavi

2015 Azienda Santa Barbara Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

2015 Fiegl Ribolla Gialla Collio

2014 Bret Brothers Macon-Villages

2015 Chateau Maris Picpoul de Pinet

2015 Patrice Moreux Sancerre

2014 Patrice Moreux Poully Fume “La Loge aux Moines”

2014 Proud Pour Sauvignon Blanc “The Oyster”

2015 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Pinot Noir

2013 BonAnno Carneros Pinot Noir

2012 Starmont Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir

2014 Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

2013 Steltzner “Claret”

2013 BonAnno Cabernet Sauvignon

 

 

FIAF Bastille Day Fest

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This past Sunday on July 10th, the French Institute Alliance Française (FIAF) which is New York’s premier French cultural center, presented their annual Bastille Day festival. It was a three-block long party on East 60th from Fifth Avenue to Lexington Avenue in Manhattan celebrating the best of France in New York and the friendship between France and the United States. Bastille Day is France’s Independence Day

The block party featured food “à la française” from top rated French restaurants and bakeries, performances from cast members of the musical An American In Paris, can-can dancing and live music from the Hungry March Band and Myriam Phiro’s Accordion Trio.

And since no French party is complete without wine, there was a Champagne & Chocolate tasting featuring some of France’s most prestigious champagnes and fine European Chocolates, and a wine, beer, cocktails and cheese tasting with both events held at the FIAF building at 22 East 60th Street. There was also a VIP party hosted at Amali restaurant on 115 East 60th street which featured wines from the south of France.

 

At the wine, beer and cheese tasting I sampled a trio of rosé:

2013 Gérard Bertrand “Thomas Jefferson Brut” Cremant de Limoux. Salmon in color, big bubbles, closed nose of cotton candy, crisp citrus at the finish.

2015 Gérard Bertrand “Gris Blanc”. Copper color with strawberry notes on the nose.

2015 Espitalet des Anges “Villa des Anges” Mostly Cinsault, salmon in color, closed nose, tight with bitter cherry notes on the finish.

Champagne & Chocolate Tasting:

NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé. Light pink in color with an earthy nose.

NV Brimoncourt Blanc de Blanc. Lime notes, bread dough on the nose with the bread dough notes on the fruit.  

NV Piper-Heidsieck Brut. Bread dough on the nose, crisp and tart.

NV G.H. Mumm’s Brut. Bread dough and earth on the nose with lime and earth notes on the finish.

At the VIP party:

2015 La Grezette “Le Rosé de Julie”

2015 RS “Rosé Seduction”

2015 Chateau Lamartine Cahors

2010 Chateau Bouscasse

2015 Domaine de Pellhaut

2013 Chateau de Jonquieres

2013 Domaine du Moulin

 

 

Summer Fancy Food Show 2016

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The Summer Fancy Food Show is a bi-coastal, bi-yearly event that is America’s largest specialty food and beverage show. With over 46,000 industry professionals, 2,500 exhibitors and over 180,000 products, it is the place to find the next big product, next big company and next big trend in the food and beverage industry.

The show took place on June 26-28 and was held at the Jacob Javits convention center on 655 W 34th street in Manhattan. This years partner country was Tunisia.

I attended Sunday for an afternoon of grazing on cured ham, cheese and chocolate and sampling mostly Italian wines.

Italy

NV Arunda Brut Rosé. (Alto Adige). Light salmon in color, crisp.

NV Arunda Brut. (Alto Adige). Dry and crisp with an oily finish.

2015 Ugolini Valpolicella “Pozzeto” (Veneto). The entry-level wine in a trio of excellent Valpolicella, medium to light red, red berry and tree bark on the nose, bitter cherry on the balanced finish.

2012 Ugolini Valpolicella “Rippaso” (Veneto). 100% Corvina, light brick in color, red cherry and leather on the nose, silky red cherry fruit, nice acidity and balance.

2013 Ugolini Valpolicella “Amarone” (Veneto). Dark red with black cherry and bitter almond on the nose, bitter almond notes on the fruit. Don’t taste the 16% alcohol.

2008 Tommasi “Ca Florian” Riserva Amarone (Veneto). Dark brick in color, dark leather on the nose, bitter almond/cherry and leather notes on the great balance.

2015 Francesco Malena “Bianco” (Cirò).  Calabrese wines, this one mostly Greco Bianco, medium gold with dried flower notes on the finish.

2014 Francesco Malena “Rosso” (Cirò). Mostly the Gaglioppe grape, brick in color with leather on the nose with bitter almond and red cherry on the finish.

2012 Francesco Malena “Pian Della Corte Riserva” (Cirò). Dark red with a brick robe, barnyard notes on the nose, concentrated fruit followed by big tannins at the finish.  

2012 Francesco Malena “Cutura Del Marchese” (Cirò). Dark brick, closed nose of roast meat, mouth coating tannin with bitter cherry and fuzzy tannin on the finish.

2013 Carra Di Casata “Arcòl” (Emilia-Romagna). Dark red to black, roasted coffee on the nose, concentrated, silky with roast nut notes on the balanced finish.

2011 Prima Pietra Toscana Rosso (Tuscany). Bordeaux blend, dark red with smoky, roast bacon on the nose, tight dark fruit, black licorice and bitter cherry on the finish.

Cantina Formigine Pedemontana. A co-op in Emilia-Romagna producing Lambrusco with is an excellent low alcohol red wine served  chilled for a Summer day.

NV Rosso Fosco. Made from the Grasparossa clone, purple, dry, crisp black berry fruit, balanced.

NV Sorbara. Sorbara is another clone for Lambrusco I don’t see often, pink in color, crisp and refreshing with some tannin coming through at the finish.

Austria

NV Harkamp Rosé Brut. Light pink with a strawberry nose, crisp with light strawberry flavors on the finish.

NV Harkamp Sauvignon Blanc Extra Brut. Don’t have a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc very often, light yellow in color with roast nuts on the nose, grassy finish.  

Spain

2014 Habla Winery “De la Tierra”. Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon blend, dark purple with dried red fruit and herbs on the nose, tight, firm red leather and earth on the finish.

2014 Habla Winery “Del Silencio”. A blend of three grapes, dark red with crushed red fruit and violets on the nose, tight with firm tannin and dried herbs on the finish.

2012 Habla Winery “N° 14”. 100% Syrah, dark red to black with a purple robe, closed nose of berries and leather, tight and concentrated with dried herbs on the firm finish.

2011 Habla Winery “N° 13”. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, dark red with a closed nose of roasted meat, tight with big tannin and herbs on the finish.