Tag: Pinot Noir

La Paulée Burgundy Verticals Tasting NYC 2025

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La Paulée began as communal banquet for growers and their workers in Burgundy around the region of Meursault, France.

In 2000, Daniel Johnnes brought the concept to New York City and this event was the 25th anniversary of La Paulée New York City. This year the event was also held in San Francisco and Tennessee.

It’s the premier Burgundy event in the city with several days of lunches, (expensive) dinners, seminars and tastings. The three walk around tastings consisted of the Grand Tasting which is their signature event where they poured the most current vintage of Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines, the “Off Grid” tasting which featured more accessible (and not crazy expensive) Burgundian wines, and the third event was the Verticals tasting which showcased older vintages of Premier and Grand Cru Burgundy wines.

I was lucky enough to attend the Verticals tasting on Friday morning. This was a great opportunity to experience some of the most famous wines of the world with some age to them. Only with this caliber of wines will you bring out dedicated wine drinkers to an event with an 10am start time.

The pinot noirs of Burgundy are the template of what every wine maker in the world that grows pinot noir strive to emulate.

They are some of the finest wines of the world but, in my opinion, also some of the most challenging wines to appreciate. A wine region like Bordeaux is pretty consistent but when it comes to Burgundy, even with the great Domaines, the wines can be hit or miss many times. Many of the wines I sampled this afternoon were difficult to drink with the high acids and high tannins that many of them showed, even in the older vintages. In any case, it still was a great experience.

The tasting was held at Second in the Eventi Hotel at 851 6th Avenue in Manhattan.

Some of what I sampled;

White

2018 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru “Marquis de Laguiche”: Clear light gold, tropical fruit notes on the nose with juicy peach notes, great balance with a long finish.

2018 Pierre Girardin Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru: Clear light gold, light toast notes on the nose with crisp toast note on the fruit.

2022 Pierre Girardin Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru: Clear light gold, big, toasty nose, chewy, toasty fruit, nice acidity.

Red

1999 Domaine Faiveley Corton Grand Cru “Clos des Cortons Faiveley”: Clear medium brick, warm ripe fruit on the nose, dusty leather notes and green graphite on the finish, crunchy tannins.

2006 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Aux Combottes”: Clear light brick, cigarette smoke, dusty tar and green herbs on the nose, cherry red leather fruit ending with mouth coating tannins.

2009 Domaine Simon Bize Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru “Aux Vergelesses Rouge”: Clear light brick, barnyard red fruit on the nose, chewy black licorice fruit with silky big tannins.

2009 Domaine Simone Bize Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru “Aux Vergelesses Rouge”: Clear light brick, barnyard and red fruit on the nose, chewy black licorice fruit with silky, big tannins.

2012 Domaine David Duband Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru en magnum: Opaque brown, tar, mint and graphite on the nose, chewy milk chocolate fruit, firm, silky tannins.

2012 Domaine de Montille Beaune 1er Cru “Les Greves”: Clear light brick, barnyard on the nose, tight red fruit with leather notes, tight and tart.

2016 Domaine Didier Fornerol Cote de Nuits Villages “La Rue des Foins”: Clear light purple, slight toast and barnyard on the nose, chewy red licorice fruit, very firm tannins.

2016 Domaine Georges Mugneret Gibourg Clos Vougeot Grand Cru: Clear light brick, smoke and sweet red leather on the nose, tight, chewy fruit with some earth notes, big tannins.

2017 Domaine Hudelot Noellat Vosne Romanee 1er Cru “Les Suchots”: Clear light brick, dirty ripe fruit on the nose, chewy black licorice fruit, silky tannins, long finish.

2017 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru “Lavaux Saint Jacques”: Clear light brick, sweet earth and tar on the nose, chewy sweet fruit, silky tannins and graphite notes on the finish.

2018 Domaine Derey Freres Fixin “Les Clos”: Clear light brick, closed nose of sweet candy, cooked vegetable notes on the fruit, silky tannins.

2019 Domaine Simon Bize Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses Rouge: Clear light brick, barnyard nose, juicy red fruit with earth notes, balanced finish.

2019 Domaine Faiveley Corton Grand Cru “Clos des Cortons Faively”: Clear light purple, dirty violets on the nose, juicy, chewy leather red fruit, nice balance.

2019 Domaine Didier Fornerol Cote de Nuits Villages “La Rue des Foins”: Clear medium purple, barnyard and dark chocolate on the nose, chewy fruit with roast nuts and smoke on the finish ending with good acidity.

2019 Domaine Yvon Clerget Clos Vougeot Grand Cru: Clear light brick, barnyard and graphite on the nose, chewy raspberry fruit ending with graphite notes and silky tannins.

2018 Decoy Pinot Noir LTD Sonoma Coast

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Decoy wines are part of the extensive Duckhorn Vineyards portfolio which includes the Paraduxx, Canvasback, Migration, Calera and Goldeneye brands.

This Pinot Noir was made with grapes from the Russian River Valley, Green Valley and Carneros AVA’s.

2018 Decoy Pinot Noir LTD

Clear, bright red in color, floral, tobacco and wood notes on the nose with bright red fruit, cherry, cola, some earth notes and firm acids on the finish. Nothing flawed about the wine but it’s a little one dimensional.

2016 Acacia Vineyards Pinot Noir Thornton Vineyard

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Now that the weather is warming up it’s almost Rosé season but in the meantime I’ll start with lighter bodied reds which often mean some Pinot Noir.

Acacia is a winery in the Carneros district of Sonoma county in California which bottle vineyard designated Pinot Noir.

2016 Acacia Pinot Noir Thornton Vineyard

Clear medium to light red in color, warm black plum, tree bark and red cherry on the nose, red leather, black cherry and cola notes on the silky red fruit with a nicely balanced, long spicy finish. Really nice, enjoyable glass of wine.

Italian Tastings: I.E.E.M. Master Classes Day 1

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October 3-11 was Milano Wine Week 2020. The event was curated by the I.E.E.M. (International Event & Exhibition Management), a PR agency for the wine industry.  Promoted as “the first international event of 2020” they ran tastings, exhibitions and seminars in Milan and several international cities. In New York they held a series of sit-down “master classes” during the course of three days which were held at Il Gattopardo restaurant at 15 West 54th Street in midtown Manhattan. 

Master class: “Discover The Unique Expression of Pinot Noir From Oltrepò Pavese” 

The wines were from the Confagricoltura Pavia, an agricultural trade organization. 

Oltrepò Pavese which translate into “Pavia across the Po” is one of Italy’s 329 DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) zones and is located about 50 miles south of the city of Milan in the region of Lombardy.

The flagship wines from that region are Spumante but they were one of the first regions in Italy to plant Pinot Noir (Pinot Nero).

As Lombardy is in North Italy, these are cool weather Pinot Noirs and I wasn’t expecting the type of lush, fruit forward Pinot Noirs that  you would get from warmer weather wine regions such as California.  The wines were young and for the most part hard as nails with tight fruit and high acidity. 

 

2017 Marchese Adorno “Rile Nero”

2015 Conte Vistarino “Pernice”

2018 Conte Vistarino “Costa del Nero”

2017 Tenuta Travaglino “Poggia della Buttinera” Riserva

2018 Frecciarossa “Carillo”

2016 Frecciarossa “Giorgio Odero”

2017 Mazzolino “Noir”

2019 Mazzolino “Terrazze”

 

Master Class: Vermentino Phenomenon: Discovering The Top 10 Vermentino.

 

Vermentino is a white grape varietal grown around the Mediterranean.

The Maremma is on the western coast of Tuscany and in a country where grapes have been planted for centuries, a relatively new vinicultural area.  Viticulture was introduced in the 19th century after the drainage of the swampland in the region. 

At this tasting we sampled ten Vermentino from Consorzio Tutela Vini della Maremma Toscana. They are an association of wine grape growers, wine makers and wine bottlers which was established “to protect the quality of Maremma Toscana DOC wines and to promote them in Italy and abroad”. They poured wines from the Grand Prix 2020 and the new low sugar versions. 

For the most part the wines were bone-dry, delicate, crisp whites that would go well with shellfish and other seafood. 

 

2019 Balbino 2019 Vermentino
2019 Nudo Vermintino 2018 Leardo
2018 Balbinvs 2018 Codice V
2017 Montero 2017 Matan
2019 Scalandrino 2018 Cobalto
 
 

 

Open At Last

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Finally, in mid June the government eased up on the restrictions placed on business and permitted the North Fork wineries to serve wines to the public in an outdoor setting. It’s a start. I took a drive out East to sit down among the vineyards to drink the first glass of wine I’ve had in public in several weeks.

 

Lenz Winery 38355 Rte 25, Peconic

One of the founding wineries on the North Fork, they pour a dependable glass of wine. 

2014 Sauvignon Blanc: They tell me this is the first vintage of this varietal for this long time winery.

Straw yellow in color, white flowers on the nose, crisp with subtle grassy and honeydew notes on the fruit. Nicely balanced, great first time effort. 

 

McCall Wines  22600 Main Road, Cutchogue

A working cattle ranch as well as a winery, there’s always a family member in the tasting room. 

2019 “Nicola” Sauvignon Blanc: Nicola is the name of the daughter of the owners who served me the wine this day. 

Light yellow in color, kiwi and honeydew melon on the nose, full fruit with lime notes on the fruit with moderate to low acids. 

2014 Pinot Noir “Estate” One of three Pinot Noir they were pouring on this day. Opaque dark brick in color, tarry, red cherry and smoky pepper on the nose with red licorice, new leather and earth on the fruit with good acid on the finish. Nice balance. 

 

 

2016 Juggernaut Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

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Juggernaut Wine Company is a division of Bogle Vineyards which is a family owned and operated winery that produces drinkable budget friendly wines. Their Juggernaut brand focuses on small production wines.

I’ve never had a wine from this brand before and even before tasting the wine I was impressed by the cool label and hefty bottle.

 

2016 Juggernaut Pinot Noir Russian River Valley: Clear, medium to light red in color, cola, cinnamon, red licorice and some earth notes on the nose, juicy red fruit with moderate to low tannins. Easy drinking. Going back to the bottle the next day I was getting pencil shavings on the nose. 

 

 

2016 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir Oregon

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Everyone likes a good glass of Pinot Noir. Unfortunately the Premier Crus and Grand Crus of Burgundy are really not priced for everyday drinking, or at least for people in my financial reality. The conventional wisdom is that cheap Pinot Noir is not worth drinking which is often true. It was great to find and drink a budget friendly Pinot Noir that was interesting enough to make for a good glass of wine.

A to Z winery sources the fruit for their wine from across Oregan. They share a tasting room with Rex Hills Winery in Newberg in the Willamette Valley and was one of the wineries I visited during my Willamette Valley wine tour a couple of years back

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2016 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir: Clear medium red, red licorice on the nose, medium juicy red fruit with some herb notes on the balanced finish.  Nothing too serious but very drinkable. 

 

 

Oregon: Eola-Amity Hills AVA

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Driving southward towards the Mid Willamette Valley I spent a couple of days touring wineries in the Eola-Amity AVA (about an hour south of Portland). The AVA is anchored in the Southeast by the state capital of Salem and contains over 33 wineries.

A distinguishing characteristic of this AVA is the Van Duzer Corridor. The corridor is a gap in the Western coastal mountain range of the Willamette valley which lets the cool Pacific Ocean maritime air flow into the AVA. Besides making for many breezy days, the winds help dry out the vineyards which controls mildew and rot. It also drops the nighttime temperatures about 28° F. which helps the grapes to retain acidity.

 

Cristom Vineyards  6905 Spring Valley Rd

Family run winery with the estate wines named after the family matriarchs, Dustin in the tasting room provided an excellent tasting experience the day we visited.

2014 Pinot Noir “Mt Jefferson”: A blend of grapes from each estate, medium purple, barnyard on the nose, silky black fruit with mint notes, a good grip and silky tannins on the finish.

2013 Pinot Noir “Estate”: Combines barrels from all four of their estate Pinot Noir vineyards, Medium red, sour cherry, dark chocolate and menthol on the nose, moderate fruit, dusty tannins and good balance.

2014 Pinot Noir “Eileen Vineyard”: Medium purple, pretty nose of barnyard and dark chocolate, silky pretty fruit of red licorice and dark chocolate, great balance, long finish.

2014 Syrah: Dark red to black with a purple rim, black leather on the nose, big mouthful of roast meat, slate on the dark fruit, great balance.

***

Van Duzer Vineyards  11975 Smithfield Rd

2015 Pinot Gris: Medium gold, tropical fruits on the nose, crisp with big lime notes on the finish.

2013 Pinot Noir “Dijon Blocks”: A blend of six Pinot noir clones, medium to light purple, barnyard and menthol notes on the nose, chewy black licorice, tight red cherry fruit.

2012 Pinot Noir “Bieze Vineyards”: Medium purple, sweet red licorice on the nose, red licorice fruit followed by crisp red fruit on the finish.

***

Saint Innocent Winery  5657 Zena Rd

Winery had a “sip and savor” wine tasting option where 3 very tasty appetizers are served with wine pairings.

2015 Pinot Noir “Villages Cuvée”: A blend from five vineyards, medium purple, cherry jam on the nose, red cherry fruit, moderate tannins and acids.

2013 Pinot Noir “Zenith Vineyard”: Light brick, perfume of sour fruit, bright red cherry fruit, moderate acids.

2013 Pinot Noir “Freedom Hill”: Medium purple, walnuts on the nose, bright dusty fruit, crisp finish.

***

Bethel Heights Vineyards  6060 Bethel Heights Rd

Winery established in 1977, all wines produced from estate owned vineyards.

2014 Chardonnay “Justice Vineyard”: Medium gold, big nose of tropical fruits, pineapple and oak with creamy lemon custard on the fruit and roasted nuts on the firm finish.

2013 Pinot Noir “Justice Vineyard”: Medium to dark brick with stewed plums and crushed black fruit on the nose, tight black cherry fruit followed by firm tannins.

2014 Pinot Noir “Flat Block”: Medium purple, pencil shavings on the nose, juicy plums on the fruit, minerals and red licorice on the finish, balanced.

***

Willamette Valley Vineyards  8800 Enchanted Way SE

The vineyard is a few minutes south of the city of Salem, just outside the AVA boundary, huge building on top of a hill with many tasting rooms, a restaurant and nice views.

2013 Pinot Noir “Dundee Hills”: Brick in color, barnyard and sour cherry notes on the nose, black licorice on the fruit, moderate acids and a long finish.

2013 Pinot Noir “Chelahem  Mts”: Brick in color, pretty perfume of tree bark and black licorice, silky fruit with earth notes, chewy red leather and a bright finish.

2015 Pinot Noir “Founders Reserve”: Medium red, plum and menthol on the nose, silky, chewy black cherry and leather fruit, bright acids at the end.

Oregon: Dundee Hills AVA

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The Dundee Hills AVA is about 28 miles southwest of Portland. Some of the first vineyards in Oregon were planted in the iron-rich, volcanic soils of the region and many of the states most famous wineries are located in this AVA. Over 40 wineries are here. Since it is close to Portland, the weekends will be crammed with day-trippers.

 

Domaine Drouhin  6750 NE Breyman Orchard Rd

This winery is probably the most famous vineyard in the state. The Drouhin family purchased land here in 1987 which is at the same latitude of the Burgundy region in France. Kellie, the Hospitality Concierge was a gracious hostess. They are releasing a second label called ” Arthur”.

2015 Chardonnay Estate “Arthur”: Medium yellow with green herbs and oak notes on the nose, white chocolate on the fruit with good structure.

2014 Pinot Noir “Dundee Hills”: Dark purple, crushed dark fruit and green herbs on the nose, concentrated, plum notes with a silky finish.

2013 Pinot Noir “Cuvée Lauréne”: Medium amber with a pretty nose of violets and earth, sweet red leather fruit, firm, long finish.

2008 Pinot Noir: Brick color, barnyard on the nose, tight and tannic.

***

Stoller Family Estate  16161 NE McDougall Rd

We had an appointment and they did not disappoint with a private tasting.

2015 Pinot Noir “Reserve”: Medium purple, dried herbs and red fruit on the nose, tight, red silky fruit.

2014 Pinot Noir “Helen’s”: From 2 acres of land, medium purple, roasted meat on the nose, chewy, black licorice fruit, great grip, black olives on the long finish.

2014 Syrah: From one acre of land planted, dark purple, roasted meat and bacon drippings n the nose, deep concentration with silky dark cherry fruit.

***

Domaine Serene  6555 Hilltop Ln

2014 Chardonnay “Cote Sud”: Medium gold, mango, tropical fruit on the nose, tight fruit, balanced finish.

2014 Pinot Noir “Yamhill Cuvée”: Medium purple, pretty perfume of black olives, silky red fruit, still young, tannins need to smooth out.

2014 Pinot Noir “Evenstad Reserve”: Medium purple, spicy, Asian spices on the nose, juicy, black licorice and red cherry fruit followed with crisp acids.

***

Sokol Blosser Winery  5000 Sokol Blosser Ln

2013 Pinot Noir “Goosepen Bock”: From 2.5 acres, brick color, barnyard on the nose, silky, tarry notes and leather on the fruit, finishes with black pepper notes.

2013 Pinot Noir “Legacy Cuvée”: Brick in color, tart, barnyard nose, juicy, chewy black licorice fruit, firm finish.

2014 Pinot Noir “Bigtree Block”: Light brick, barnyard and red cherry on the nose, red cherry fruit, firm finish, peppery.

***

Soter Vineyards  10880 NE Mineral Springs Rd

Ok so technically, this vineyard is just west of the Dundee Hills AVA in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA but close enough. Modernistic tasting room with a big kitchen and 32 acres planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Wine host met us in the parking lot with glasses of rosé in hand.

2015 North Valley Chardonnay: Their non estate Chard, medium gold with green tints, dried white flowers and green herbs on the nose, tight and dry with lime and tropical fruit notes on the finish.

2014 North Valley Origin “Yamhill-Carlton”: Medium purple, light barnyard and red cherry on the nose, silky red fruit, nicely balanced.

2014 Soter Pinot Noir “Mineral Springs Ranch”: Dark purple, closed nose of crushed black fruit with a hint of rosemary, black licorice on the tight fruit with firm, dusty tannins at the end. Still young.

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The Four Graces  9605 NE Foxfarm Rd

2014 Pinot Noir “Willamette”: Medium purple, crushed plums and slate on the nose, silky red cola on the fruit followed with some astringency at the finish.

2014 Pinot Noir “Reserve”: Medium purple, barnyard, crushed black fruit and crushed rock on the nose, with bright red fruit and firm tannins and acids.

2014 Pinot Noir “Lindsay’s Reserve”: Medium purple, green herbs, red licorice on the nose, chunky red fruit with mouth coating tannin at the finish.

2014 Pinot Noir “Foley Family Estate”: Medium purple to brick, barnyard notes on the nose, juicy red licorice fruit, balanced finish, silky tannins.

***

Roco Winery  13260 NE Red Hills Rd

This is a small winery on the northern border of Dundee HIlls.

2014 Pinot Noir “Wit’s End”: Light red to brick in color, closed nose with some stinkiness with bright red cherry fruit.

2014 Pinot Noir “Private Stash #12”: Light red, red licorice and leather on the nose, bright cherry fruit, moderate to long finish, firm acids.

2014 Pinot Noir “The Stalker”: Light brick, tree bark and black licorice on the nose, medium to light juicy fruit with good acidity.

2014 Pinot Noir “Fossil Block”: From a single block of vines, medium red, black licorice and smoke on the nose, concentrated, silky, firm with a long finish.

 

 

Oregon: Chehalem Mtns & McMinnville AVAs

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On the first week of April I took a road trip to the Willamette Valley in Oregon to meet some colleagues for a week of wine tasting, visiting the various AVA’s. It was  the first time for me visiting the Pacific Northwest. The wine country of Willamette Valley is about 150 miles long with 500+ wineries specializing in Pinot Noir with Pinot Gris as the predominate white grape though Chardonnay is starting to make a comeback. Some producers made some Riesling and Viogner as well and for many wineries I visited, the pet project for many wine makers was producing a cool weather Syrah.

The Willamette Valley became an AVA (American Viticultural Area) in 1983 and was further divided into six sub-AVAs in the early 2000’s.

My first day of the Oregon wine crawl began in the Chehalem Mountains AVA (established in 2006), the appellation has the highest mountains in the Willamette valley and 31 wineries and it’s about a 45 minute drive south of Portland. The McMinnville AVA (established in 2005) is further south with fewer wineries about 10 minutes south of the town of McMinnville.

Wine country around here is beautiful rolling green hills, fresh air and hospitable people, and at this time of year, cool, misty weather. It reminded me of Umbria in Italy except without the hillside, Medieval towns.

 

Coeur de Terre Vineyards (McMinnville)  21000 SW Eagle Point Rd.

A real Mom & Pop operation started from scratch with passion and hard work by Scott and Lisa Neal. A drive on dirt roads to the hilltop winery, I was lucky to have Lisa Neal on hand to explain the wines that day.

2013 Pinot Noir Oregon: Their restaurant “wine by the glass” wine. Light red with red cherry and barnyard notes on the nose, cherry licorice on the fruit, easy drinking.

2012 Pinot Noir Heritage Reserve: Medium red, menthol on the nose, silky tannins on the red cherry fruit.

2012 Pinot Noir “Tallulah’s Run”: Dark red, toast and crushed black fruit and violets on the nose, concentrated and silky fruit with silky tannins on the firm finish.

2013 Pinot Noir “Abbey’s Block”: Medium red, sweet red fruit and minerals on the nose, concentrated red cherry fruit, good grip and balance.

2012 Pinot Noir “Sarah Jane’s Block”: Medium to dark purple, stinky barnyard on the nose, concentrated and silky fruit ending with firm tannins.

2012 Pinot Noir “Renelle’s Block”: Medium red with a pretty perfume of violets, red flowers and fresh herbs, chunky red fruit with silky tannins and a nice grip the end.

***

Bergström Winery (Chehalem Mtns)  18215 NE Calkins Ln.

A drive into the hills brings you to a minimalist tasting room overlooking the vineyards.

2014 Chardonnay “Sigrid”  Medium gold, toast, lime and petroleum on the nose, the fruit is lighter than the aroma with tropical fruit notes. Very complex nose.

2015 Pinot Noir “Gregory Ranch”:  Medium red with a purple rim, green herbs on the nose, tight silky fresh herbs on the fruit. Good balance and structure.

2015 Pinot Noir “Shea”:  85 acres planted, medium purple with a pretty perfume of crushed red fruit and tea.

2015 Pinot Noir “Silice”:  Light purple, earth, slate and black fruit on the nose, tight green herbs and tannins showing through on the fruit, balanced.

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Rex Hills Vineyard (Chehalem Mtns)  30835 North Highway 99W.

Winery located just outside the town of Newberg, gateway to the Willamette Valley and a sister property of A-Z Wineworks.

2016 A-Z Rosé: Made from Sangiovese, very light red, ripe strawberry and watermelon on the nose, light strawberry jam on the fruit, nice balance.

2014 Rex Hills Chardonnay:  Light yellow, toast and butterscotch on the nose, tight with oak notes on the finish.

2014 Rex HIlls Pinot Noir “Willamette Valley”: Medium red with bacon grease and black fruit on the nose, tight with pine notes on the fruit, firm finish.

2014 Rex Hills Pinot Noir “Jacob-Hart”: 36 acres of biodynamic vineyards, clear, medium red, roast meat and crushed black fruit on the nose, silky concentration with great balance and a long finish.