La Paulée de New York 2020

 

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This year was the 20th anniversary of La Paulée de New York which was held from March 4-7. The week included seminars, tastings and some very expensive dinners. The Grand Tasting was held on Saturday afternoon at the Pier Sixty event venue located at 60 Chelsea Piers on the far west side of Manhattan overlooking the Hudson river.

In the U. S., the festival alternates between New York City and San Francisco and showcases the latest vintage of the Burgundian wines to be released. At the Grand Tasting on Saturday afternoon over 50 wine professionals were on hand to serve the wines from over 40 domains of Burgundy. A team of top-notch chefs prepared “petits plats” for guests to nosh on while they sampled the various wines. Members of the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastvin were on hand to serenade (a capella style) the wine drinkers.

The event is Restaurateur and Sommelier Daniel Johnson’s homage to the annual La Paulée de Meursault in Burgundy. That originally began as a end of harvest festival thrown by the Burgundian growers for their guests and field workers and was revived in the early twentieth century as an annual event for the growers and their guests.

The 2017 vintage was a much better year for Burgundy than Bordeaux. The later suffered through epic frost while Burgundy was able haul in the biggest crop since 2009.

This was one of those tastings that I could have spent 2-3 days tasting through all the wines. There were over 150 of some of the most famous (and expensive) wines in the world to taste. I really enjoyed the whites, in general they were very elegant and balanced wines with just enough of the tropical fruit and oak notes to make them interesting. The reds were light in color with restrained fruit and firm acids, very old world style.

Some of what I sampled:

2017 Vintage

Domaine Etienne Sauzet

Puligny Montrachet: Light gold, closed nose lemon curd, nicely balanced fruit.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrieres: Light gold, nose of fresh herbs, moderate fruit with a firm but juicy finish.

Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet: Light gold, spicy cinnamon on the nose, moderate fruit with a firm, balanced finish. 

Domaine Roulot

Meursault “A Mon Plasir” Clos du Haut Tesson: Light gold with tropical notes on the nose, earthy, tart fruit, good balance. 

Domaine Bernard Moreau

Chassagne Montrachet: Light gold, tropical nose, dusty, tropical notes on the fruit, nice balance. 

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Vergers: Light gold, rosemary and tropical fruit on the nose, moderate fruit, pineapple, firm and balanced finish. 

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot: Medium to light gold, cinnamon and tropical fruit notes on the nose, fruit forward, drops at the end. 

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru: Light gold, tropical fruit and cinnamon on the nose, minerally with crisp acids at the end.

Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru: Medium gold, tropical fruits and cinnamon on the nose with tropical fruit notes and lemon on the long finish. 

Olivier Laflaive

Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot: Medium gold, spicy tropical fruit on the nose with tropical fruit notes on the nice balance.

Meursault 1er Cru Blagny Sous le Dos d’Ane: Medium gold, toasty nose, lemon tart fruit with a firm finish. 

Bouchard Pere & Fils

Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru: Medium gold, mashed peaches on the nose, moderate peachy fruit, great balance. 

Beaune 1er Cru Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus: Light brick, red leather on the nose, green herb notes on the balanced and long finish.

Joseph Drouhin

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc: Light gold, toasted pineapple on the nose, moderate tropical fruit with oak notes, nice finish. 

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge: Clear light red, pretty perfume of spicy berries, silky fruit with a nice balance.

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru: Clear light red, spicy perfume with oak notes on the light fruit. 

Domaine Genot-Boulanger

Meursault 1er Cru Les Boucheres: Light gold, spicy tropical fruit on the nose, spicy, juicy fruit, long finish. 

Domaine de Montille

Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots: : Light gold, green herbs and tropical fruit on the nose, juicy fruit with lime notes, good balance. 

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru: Light gold, toast and tropical fruit on the nose, toasty lime fruit, crisp finish. 

Beaune 1er Cru Les Sizies: Light red, red leather nose, silky red fruit and red leather notes on the firm finish.

Louis Jadot

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru: Medium gold, sweet candy and toast on the nose, juicy with a firm finish. 

Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras: Light red, roasted earth on the nose, dusty, juicy fruit with firm acids at the finish. 

Domaine Yvon Clerget

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru: Light to medium red, floral nose with sweet fruit and a tight finish.

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol

Volnay: Light purple, dried leaves on the nose, crushed rock on the fruit, good grip.

Domaine Jean Grivot

Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Ronciere: Light brick, dried herbs on the nose, medium body fruit with good balance and a long finish. 

Domaine Hudelot-Baillet

Chambolle Musigny Vielles Vignes: Clear medium red, black licorice on the nose, juicy fruit with a nice balance.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras: Clear medium red, toasty tar on the nose, silky fruit and nicely balance.

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru: Clear medium red, tarry black fruit on the nose with silky red fruit and a firm balanced finish. 

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue

Chambolle Musigny Vielles Vignes: Clear medium red, sweet perfume of strawberries with a tight and silky finish. 

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru: Clear medium purple, pretty nose of sweet, dried herbs, juicy red leather on the fruit, nice balance.

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru: Medium brick, red leather and herbs on the nose, silky red fruit on the firm and balance finish.

Domaine Dujac

Morey Saint Denis: Light red, red leather nose with moderate juicy fruit, balanced. 

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru: Light red, dried herbs on the nose, dusty red fruit with firm, mouth watering tannins at the finish.

Domaine Duroché

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St Jacques: Clear light purple, damp earth and rosemary on the nose with strawberry notes on the fruit ending with firm acidity. 

Echezeaux Grand Cru: Clear light red, strawberry and earth on the nose, red cherry fruit with rosemary notes on the finish. 

Domaine Jean-Marie Fourrier

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes: Light clear red, earth and herbs on the nose, silky finish with some heat at the end.

 

La Paulée de New York 2017

La Paullée de Meursault was a Burgundian end of harvest festival originally for wine makers, cellar workers and the surrounding community. In 2000 Sommelier and Wine Entrepreneur Daniel Johnnes brought the festival to the United States as a homage to the original La Paulée. The festival alternates between the cities of San Francisco and New York and in 2017 the festival came back to New York.

The festival took place during the week of March 7-11 with seminars, tastings and wine-pairing dinners. The Grand Tasting was on Saturday afternoon from 12-3 and was a walk-around tasting of over 100 Burgundy wines from the 2014 vintage.

The event was held at Pier 60 event space in the Chelsea Piers sport complex at 23rd street and the West Side Highway at the Hudson River.

Some of what I sampled:

 

WHITE

Domaine Alex Gambal Saint-Aubin 1er Cru: Very light yellow, cinnamon spice on the nose, moderate fruit, very balanced, easy drinking.

Domaine Eleni & Edouard Vocoret Chablis “Le Bas de Chapelot”: Light yellow with a greenish tint, lime and melon on the nose, moderate fruit, nice balance.

Domaine Alex Gambol Puligny-Montrachet “Les Enseignieres”: Light yellow, closed nose, juicy mango on the fruit with a nice grip at the finish.

Domaine Rougeot Meursault “Sous La Velle”: Medium yellow, peaches on the nose, petroleum on the finish.

Domaine Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Mazures”: Light yellow, greenish tints, toast, petroleum on the nose, cinnamon on the moderate fruit, long finish.

Domaine Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru: Light yellow, oak notes on the nose, nice fruit at initial sip, tightens up at the finish.

Domaine des Lambrays Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Clos du Cailleret: Light yellow with a green tint with green tropical fruit.

Les Hospices de Beune Saint-Romain “Cuvee Joseph Menault”: Light yellow, cinnamon spice on the nose, juicy tropical fruit with moderate acids. Very Cali.

Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault 1er Cru “Genevrieres”: Very light yellow, cinnamon spice on the nose, light buttery fruit with a nice balance and a long finish. Nice.

 

RED

Louis Jadot Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru: Medium red with a pretty perfume of dark violets, dusty, silky, tight with a long finish.

Domaine Génot-Lavollée Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru: Medium purple, stinky red cherry on the nose, earthy bright fruit with a tight finish.

Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru: Light red, crushed red berries on the nose with bright red fruit and a nice balance.

Domaine Gagey Clos-Saint Denis Grand Cru: Light red, crushed red berry and dirt on the nose, silky fruit with a lip smacking finish.t fruit, tight finish.

Bouchard Père & Fils Le Corton Grand Cru: Light red, crushed black fruit on the nose, tight with firm tannins.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru: Light red, big smoky perfume with delicate fruit.

Domaine Génot-Lavollée Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru “Clos du Chapitre”: Medium red, crushed red fruit with asparagus on the nose, nice fruit, balanced finish.

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru “Taillepieds”: Medium red, crushed black fruit on the nose, bright, tight and dusty fruit, firm and tart on the finish.

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru “Les Suchots”: Medium red, big barnyard on the nose, silky, spicy with firm. crisp acids.

Domaine Georges Mugnerer-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée: Light red, cooked warm dark berries on the nose, dusty, tight and firm fruit.

Les Hospices de Beaune 1er Cru “Cuvee Guigone de Salins”: Medium to light red, smoky black cherry and dirt on the nose, silky, concentrated fruit that drops a bit at the end.

Domaine des Lambrays Morey-Saint Denis 1er Cru “Les Loup”: Medium red with bright black cherry and green herbs on the nose, tight, bright black fruit.

Domaine Armand Rousseau 1er Cru Gevrey Chambertin: Light red, barnyard and black cherry on the nose with silky, light cherry fruit.

Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Lavaut Saint_Jacques”: Medium red, warm crushed berries and earth on the nose, dusty fruit with firm tannins at the finish.

Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru “La Combe d’Orveau Cuvee Ultra”: Medium red, crushed black fruit on the nose, silky fruit with nice balance.

 

 

La Paulee de New York 2015

 

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February 16-28 was Burgundy wine week in New York, a week long series of wine dinners and tastings with wine makers, Chefs and Sommeliers. La Paulée de New York was a part of those festivities. La Paulée was a Burgundian celebration held after the harvest and now refers to the festivities held in Meursault during the third weekend of each November. The grand finale of the festivities is La Paulée, an extravagant luncheon beginning at noon and lasting into the evening. La Paulée de New York is Daniel Johannes’ homage to the Burgundian tradition. The first one was held in New York in March 2000. The event alternates yearly between the cities of New York and San Francisco and this  year was New York’s turn to host the event. On Saturday afternoon they held a Grand Tasting at the Metropolitan Pavilion on 125 West 18th Street in Manhattan. It was a walk-around tasting of over a hundred Burgundy along with food prepared by some top end Chefs and local restaurants.

All of the wines with the exception of the Magnums of Meursault and Chablis from Domaine BaIlot-Millot and Christine Moreau poured in the American Express lounge, were from the 2012 vintage. It was a difficult vintage with lousy weather (including hail) in the beginning of the year which thinned out the crop that resulted in much smaller output than normal. The weather during the harvest months of August and September was much better and the grapes that were left turned out fine. I have to say that my impression of the vintage was in general, of some very good wines all around, young at this stage but elegant. I was getting a lot of new world aromas and manageable acidity. It was an afternoon of good juice.

2012 Whites:

Domain Willaim Fevre Chablis “Montée de Tonnerre”. Light gold, lychee on the nose with some earth on the nice balanced fruit.

Chablis Grand Cru “Les Preuses”. Very gold in color, closed nose, tight with some harshness at the end.

Chablis Grand Cru “Bougros”. Light gold with sweet spice on the nose, nice acidity and balance.

Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos”. Light gold with a toasty nose and fruit, tight, long finish.

Joseph Drouhin Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos“. Gold with sweet spice on the nose, moderate fruit with hints of ground nuts on the finish.

Domaine Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Gold in color with floral and fresh wild mushrooms on the nose, medium tropical fruit and a juicy, long finish.

Domaine Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet “Clos Saint Jean”. Light gold with earth and candy on the nose, moderate fruit ending with bubblegum notes.

Chassagne-Montrachet “La Grande Montagne”. Light gold, floral, tart and tight with dusty oak and cinnamon on the moderate to long finish.

Chassagne-Montrachet “La Romanée”. Light gold with cinnamon spice on the nose with cinnamon and lemon on the long finish.

Domaine LeFlaive Pugligny-Montrachet. Light gold with a toasty nose with sweet spice and toast on the fruit.

Puligny-Montrachet “Clavoillon”. Light gold with floral and light toast on the nose with oak and dried mushroom on the fruit.

Olivier LeFlaive Pugliny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles”. Light gold with spicy cinnamon on the nose, moderate juicy with lemon custard notes on the fruit, good balance.

Pugliny-Montrachet “Les Folatières”. Gold in color with toasty tropical fruit on the nose, moderate fruit and good balance.

Hospices de Beaune Meursault “Charmes Cuvée de Lanlay”. Light gold with dried flowers and toasted oak on the nose with notes of roasted nuts on the finish.

Pierre-Yves-Collin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Caillerets”. Light gold with floral, mushrooms on the nose, nice balance and acidity.

 2012 Reds:

Domaine Faiveley Mercurey “Clos du Roy”. Light to medium red with dried herbs on the nose, silky with nice balance, drops a bit but still tasty.

Corton Grand Cru “Clos des Cortons Faiveley”. Medium red with barnyard on the nose with chewy, velvety dark fruit on the long finish. One of my favorites of the afternoon.

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru “Les Ouvtees Rodin”. Light to medium red with black cherry and barnyard on the nose, silky and balanced with a long finish. Another favorite.

Hospices de Beaune Volnay “Cuvée Blondeau”. Medium red with a purple robe with pencil shavings and camphor on the nose and bright, tight fruit and firm tannin.

Echezeaux “Cuvée Jean-Luc Bissey”. Dark red with black cherry on the nose, silky with notes of dried thyme on the finish.

Domaine Anne Parent Pommard “Les Chaponnieres“. Light purple with dried mushroom and some damp earth on the nose, dusty and tight with a mouthful of tannin and nice acidity.

Pommard “Les Epenots”. Light purple with a brick robe, dusty black cherry on the nose, chewy with the finish dropping a bit.

Corton Grand Cru “Les Renardes”. Medium red with black cherry and damp earth on the nose with tight, black licorice fruit and firm tannins.

Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny “Les Baudes”. Medium red with pencil shavings on the nose, bright black cherry fruit, firm finish, some heat.

Chambertin Clos-de Bèze Grand Cru. Medium red with candle wax on the nose with tight, black cherry fruit.

Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune Greves “Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus”. Bright red in color with a floral nose with bright fruit and a firm finish.

Domaine Simon Bize & Fils Savigny-les-Beaune “Les Fourneaux”. Medium red with an amber robe, red cherry on the nose with dusty, red cherry fruit and good balance.

Savigny-les-Beaune “Les Marconnets”. Medium to dark red with dried cherry and herbs on the nose, red cherry fruit with mouth watering tannin at the finish.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet Fixin “Clos du Chapitre”. Medium bright red with black cherry and mushroom on the nose, silky bright fruit and good acidity.

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Clos Vougeot Grand Cru. Light red with a brick robe, smoky black cherry on the nose, mushroom on the tight fruit with good acidity and moderate to long finish.

Romanée-Saint Vivant Grand Cru. Light red with earth and mushroom on the nose with silky black cherry fruit and nicely balanced.

Clos de Tart Monopole Grand Cru. Medium red with red damp earth and dried herbs on the nose, hints of bubble-gum on the fruit.

Olivier Bernstein Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Cazetiers”. Medium red with dried herbs and black fruit on the nose with dark cherry fruit.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin “Cherbaudes”. Medium red with dried mushroom on the nose and bright red fruit on the firm finish.

Magnum Lounge

Domaine Christine Moreau 2008 Chablis Grand Cru “Valmur”. Gold in color with a spicy, sweet perfume, balanced with a long finish. Delicious

Domaine Ballot-Millot  2009 Meursault “Perrieres”. Gold in color with a very toasty nose with notes of burnt petroleum on the finish

2009 Meursault “Genevrieres”. Light gold with a toasty nose, sweet toast oak flavors on the fruit, tight at the end but balanced. Tasty.

2009 Meursault “Charmes”. Gold with big toasty oak on the nose, tasty fruit with moderate lemon flavors on the balanced finish.