Tag: French Wines

Vinous Icons New York City 2025

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

Antonio Galloni is a wine critic and founder of the internet wine magazine Vinous. On February 27-March 1, the magazine held its second edition of Vinous Icons New York which was a series of wine dinners and two walk around tastings.

This year the event was held at the Pier Sixty event space at 60 Chelsea Piers on the west side of Manhattan overlooking the Hudson River.

This space was much larger than the venue that held the event last year with more room to walk around, in addition to a great view of the New Jersey skyline across the river.

The events were open to members of the trade and to the public and I attended both walk around tastings on Friday and Saturday afternoons.

This is one of the best wine tasting experiences of the year with the sheer quantity of top end wines to sample from France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Argentina and the United States.

With so many wines available to try, as usual I focused my attention on the wines of Bordeaux and Napa Valley. Most of the wineries poured different wines on each day so there was more than enough on both days to keep me busy with those two wine regions.

Some of what I sampled:

Old World

2006 Chateau La Grange (St Emilion): Clear medium brick, black olives and cigarette smoke on the nose, chewy, black licorice fruit, chewy tannins with crushed rock notes on the finish.

2009 Cos D’Estournel (St Estephe): Opaque black, brick rim, dirty cooked fruit and dark chocolate on the nose, dense and chewy with silky tannins and dark chocolate notes on the long finish.

2010 Cos D’Estournel (St Estephe): Opaque dark red, brick rim, closed nose of smoke and tree bark, dense and chewy dark chocolate fruit, silky tannins, great balance.

2015 Chateau Haut Bailly (Pessac Leognan): Clear medium brick, tarry dirt on the nose, chewy graphite fruit ending with firm tannins.

2015 Chateau Troplong Mondot (St Emilion): Opaque black, brick rim, closed nose of crushed stone, chewy dark fruit with firm tannins, balanced acidity.

2016 Cos D’Estournel (St Estephe): Opaque dark red, brick rim, tarry barnyard on the nose, tight red fruit, firm tannins.

2020 Chateau Pichon Longueville (Pauillac): Opaque dark purple, toasty violets on the nose, tight with chewy red fruit, firm, long finish, still young at this point.

***

2008 Ornellaia (Tuscany): Opaque black, brick rim, tar and leather on the nose, chewy dark fruit with slate notes, nice acidity, long finish.

2014 Vega Sicilia “Unico” (Ribera del Duero): Opaque dark red, brick rim, smoky dirt and tar on the nose, chewy, dusty fruit with graphite notes, long finish.

2016 Bodegas Vatan “Arena” (Toro): Opaque black, purple rim, spicy red cherry nose, chewy dense fruit with tar, mint and smoke notes on the finish, great balance.

2016 Allegrini Amarone “Ferramonte”(Veneto): Opaque medium brick, pencil shaving and mint notes on the nose, chewy, chunky dark fruit with great balance.

2019 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany): Clear light brick, toasty dirty cherry on the nose, moderate chewy fruit with leather notes, drinking nicely now.

2020 Isole e Olena “Cepparello” (Tuscany): Opaque medium brick, brick rim, tar, graphite and dark chocolate on the nose, chewy with silky acids with dusty tar notes on the finish.

2021 Ornellaia (Tuscany): Opaque dark red, purple rim, stinky tar and leather on the nose, chewy, dense and dusty fruit with slate notes, nice balance.

New World

2014 Stag’s Leap Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “Fay” (Napa Valley): Opaque black, brick rim, blueberry and crushed rocks on the nose, chewy dark fruit with tar and cigarette smoke notes ending with firm tannins.

2015 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, smoky tar and dark chocolate on the nose, chewy fruit with slate and chocolate notes on the finish.

2018 Continuum Estate Red Blend (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, purple rim, dark chocolate on the nose, concentrated dark fruit ending with nice balance.

2021 Brand Proprietary Blend (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, stemmy, plummy smoke on the nose, chewy black fruit ending with firm, silky tannins.

2021 Brand Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, tree bark on the nose, chewy black fruit with mint notes, silky and firm tannins on the long finish.

2021 Futo “Seta” (Napa Valley)” A red blend, opaque dark red, purple rim, stone and crushed rocks on the nose, concentrated dark silky fruit with slate and dark chocolate notes, great balance.

2021 Futo Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Estate (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, crushed rocks, smoke and blueberry on the nose, juicy, silky fruit with silky, firm tannins on the finish.

2021 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon “Red Rock Terrace” (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, ripe smoke and black fruit on the nose, tight and chewy dark chocolate fruit firm tannins on the great balance, still young.

2021 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon “Volcanic Hill” (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, crushed black fruit and blueberries on the nose, concentrated black fruit, nice silky tannins, great balance.

2021 Vineyardist Cabernet Sauvignon “Heritage Ridge” (Napa Valley): Opaque black, smoky dirt on the nose, concentrated, chewy and chunky with silky tannins, nice balance.

2021 Vineyardist Cabernet Sauvignon “Calarcadia Vineyard” (Napa Vally): Opaque black, closed nose of slate and crushed rocks, silky dark chocolate fruit, firm tannins on the nice balance.

2021 Stag’s Leap Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “Fay” (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, stone, tree bark and crushed sweet fruit on the nose, chewy black fruit, firm and silky tannins, long finish, still young.

2021 Repris Cabernet Franc Moon Mtn. Vineyard (Sonoma): Opaque dark red, purple rim, closed nose of vanilla and milk chocolate, mouth coating dark fruit with dusty, firm tannins, long finish.

2021 Ovid Red Blend “Hexameter” (Napa Valley): A Cabernet Franc focused wine, opaque black, purple rim, tree bark and milk chocolate on the nose, chewy fruit ending with toast notes on the crisp tannins.

2021 Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir “Raschen Ridge” (Sonoma Coast): Clear medium purple, spicy cinnamon on the nose, juicy, dusty red fruit, nice balance.

2021 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon “Sacrashe Vineyard” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, purple rim, chewy and thick fruit with graphite notes on the silky tannins, nice balance.

2021 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon “Coombsville” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark purple, crushed rocks on the nose, dense and tarry red fruit, dusty finish, nice balance.

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir “Richaven” (Russian River Valley): Opaque dark red, toasty red fruit on the nose, juicy dark fruit with tar notes, crisp acids.

2022 Tor Cabernet Sauvignon To Kalon Vineyard (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, brick rim, dark plum and cigarette smoke on the nose, chewy and minty fruit ending with silky tannins.

Wine Paris 2025

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

On February 10-12, I attended the 6th annual Wine Paris global wine & spirits exposition in Paris, France.

According to Vinexposium which is the organization running the event, there were 4,600 exhibitors from 50 producer countries with a record attendance this year of 52,000 people from 140 countries.

The event was held at the Porte de Versailles expo center located in the southern part of the city served by a couple of lines on the Metro system.

It was a huge event with many pavilions showcasing the wines of the world, not surprisingly, the largest was the French wine pavilion which is where I spent my first afternoon.

Some of what sampled:

White

2022 Roland Lavantureux Petit Chablis (Burgundy): Clear light gold with lime notes on the nose, juicy with good acidity.

2022 Montirus “Mineral” (Vacqueyras): Clear medium gold, lime and tropical fruit notes on the nose, medium bodied and nicely balanced.

2022 Albert Bichot Bourgogne Aligoté (Burgundy): Clear light gold, spicy tropical notes on the nose, moderate juicy with good balance.

2023 Jean Charton Pugliny-Montrachet “Clos de la Pucelle” (Burgundy): Clear light gold, tropical fruit notes and toast on the nose, juicy fruit with roast nut notes followed with nice acidity.

2023 Jean Charton Chevalier-Montrachet “Clos des Chevaliers” (Burgundy): Recently bottled, clear light gold with toasty tropical fruit notes on the nose, juicy, sweet fruit with nice acidity.

2023 Domaine Berthelmont Puligny-Montrachet “Les Foltieres” (Burgundy): Clear light gold, sweet green herbs on the nose, juicy moderate fruit, balanced and long finish.

Red

2006 Chateau Leoville Poyferre (St. Julien): Opaque black, brick rim, tar and dark chocolate on the nose, chewy dark fruit with green herbs, slate and tree bark notes.

2007 Domaine de Reveirolles Chateauneuf du Pape (Rhone): Clear medium brown, brown rim, dirt notes on the nose, chewy fruit with minty chocolate on the finish.

2012 Domaine Bosquet des Papes (Chateauneuf du Pape): Opaque dark brick, brick rim, dark chocolate on the nose, chewy fruit with slate and chocolate notes ending with silky tannins,

2014 Manuel Olivier Vosne Romanee (Burgundy): Clear light brick, tarry nose, juicy and firm moderate fruit, silky tannins, long finish.

2015 Benjamin de Beauregard (Pomerol): Opaque dark brick, brick rim, cooked vegetable on the nose, concentrated tight moderate to light fruit, toasty finish.

2017 Chateau Petit Mongot (St. Emilion): Opaque dark red, purple rim, perfume of violets, bell pepper and cooked vegetable, concentrated black fruit ending with moderate tannins and acids.

2018 Anseillan (Pauillac): Opaque dark red, brick rim, dusty ripe tar on the nose, tight and juicy fruit with stone notes, good grip, long finish.

2019 Philippe le Hardi Gevrey-Chambertin “Cru Petite Chappelle” (Burgundy): Clear light brick, toasty barnyard on the nose, chewy milk chocolate with silky tannins.

2019 Pauillac de Lynch-Moussas (Pauillac): Opaque black, brick rim, toasty slate on the nose, concentrated dusty fruit, firm, toasty finish.

2019 Chateau Angludet (Margaux): Opaque dark red, brick rim, toast notes on the nose, chewy black fruit with a toasty, firm long finish.

2019 Chateau Endos Haut Mazeyres (Pomerol): Opaque dark red, warm crushed dark fruit and tar on the nose, juicy dark fruit with silky, graphite tannins, good balance.

2022 Roland Lavantureux Bourgogne “Les Fauconniers” (Burgundy): Clear medium purple, roast meat and barnyard on the nose, juicy red leather fruit ending with firm tannins, long finish.

2022 Chateau de Laborde Gevrey-Chambertin “Villes Vignes” (Burgundy): Clear medium purple, spicy wet cardboard on the nose, juicy red fruit with tar notes, good balance.

California At Wine Paris 2025

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

On February 10-12, I attended the 6th annual Wine Paris trade show in Paris, France. The event was curated by Vinexposium which organizes major international events for the wine & spirits industry.

It was a trade show for members of the trade, winemakers, distributors, sommeliers and merchants. This years show had over 5,300 exhibiters from 50 wine producing countries with a record attendance of over 52,000 attendees.

It has always been on my bucket list to attend one of these major international wine trade shows in Europe whether it be in London, Verona, Düsseldorf or Paris. It’s been over fifteen years since I’ve last been in Paris, and it’s a beautiful city and I welcomed the opportunity to go back this year and experience the trade show.

The event took place at the Porte de Versailles expo center in the 11th arrondissment in the southern part of the city, conveniently with a Metro stop on the number 12 line.

This expo center is massive. As a point of reference, I have the Javits Center in New York City which is the city’s expo center. Porte de Versailles was a least three times the size of the Javits Center with eight pavilions.

Not surprisingly , the French pavilion was the largest with three floors, Italy had a pavilion to itself, there was a pavilion for worldwide spirits and cocktails, and a pavilion for “foreign” wines where wines from the United States and other counties other than Italy were showcased.

Each day had many master classes and opportunities to speak with industry professionals and to sample wine. Lots of wine.

Most of the wines from the U.S. were from California, with Napa Valley having a dedicated area to itself. There were also wines from Oregon and outlier States of New York and Virginia. I spent one afternoon at Napa Valley chatting with the people behind the bottles. I was curious to hear how receptive the Europeans were to the American wines .

2019 BV Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, purple rim, crushed black plums and smoke on the nose, juicy with slate notes, silky tannins, nice balance.

2021 BV Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Georges De LaTour” (Napa Valley: Opaque black, purple rim, dark cherry chocolate on the nose, chewy with silky tannins, long finish, still young at this point.

2018 Cain Five (Napa Valley): Opaque black, purple rim, pretty perfume of violets, chewy black fruit ending with silky, mouth coating tannins.

2021 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, purple rim, crushed rocks and violet on the nose, dark and chewy with chocolate notes, silky, firm tannins, nice balance.

2021 Cliff Lede Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Poetry” (Stags Leap): Opaque black, purple rim, dirt and chocolate on the nose, tight concentrated fruit with a firm, dusty finish, great balance.

2021 Darious Cabernet Sauvignon “Darius II” (Napa Valley): Opaque black with a purple rim, crushed rock and dark chocolate on the nose, concentrated black fruit with mint and graphite notes, silky and dusty tannins, firm acids.

2021 Grace Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon “Cornelius Grove” (Napa Valley): A single vineyard bottling, opaque dark red with a purple rim, closed nose of crushed black fruit and chocolate, concentrated silky dark fruit and tannins, nice balance, long finish.

2021 Grace Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, purple rim, stone, violets and green herbs on the nose, chewy and dusty fruit with milk chocolate and graphite notes, very firm tannins.

2018 Morlet Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Coeur de Vallee” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, purple rim, perfume of black olives and milk chocolate, chewy red chocolate fruit with green olive notes, nice balance, long finish.

2022 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs (Sonoma County): Clear medium red, purple rim, earth and cigarette smoke on the nose, chewy fruit with chocolate notes ending with firm, mouth coating tannins.

2022 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel “Pagani Ranch’ (Sonoma Valley): Opaque medium red, purple rim, bright, ripe green fruit on the nose, juicy red fruit with licorice notes, tannins and acids are balanced.

2021 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon “Hillside Select” (Napa Valley): Clear dark red, purple rim, crushed red fruit and fresh rosemary on the nose, bright red fruit, dusty tannins, crisp acids.

2022 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon “1.5” (Napa Valley): Clear light red, purple rim, tarry green herbs and roasted nuts on the nose, bright red fruit with dusty tannins and moderate acidity.

2014 Staglin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (Napa Valley): Opaque dark black, nose of ripe fruit, cooking spices and tree bark, chewy ending tight with tart notes.

2021 Staglin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (Napa Valley): Opaque black with a purple rim, crushed rocks and spices on the nose, juicy black fruit with green olive notes and crisp acids.

2021 Staglin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Salus” (Napa Valley): Opaque black with a purple rim, black olives and dark chocolate on the nose, tight and concentrated ending with some tart notes.

Seminar: California Pinot Noir

2019 Long Meadow Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley): Clear medium brick, tar, leather and roast nuts on the nose, juicy fruit with earth and roast fruit notes, toast notes on the finish, crisp acids.

2020 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir “Larmes de Grappe” (Sta. Rita Hills): Clear light brick, toasted earth and red leather on the nose, tight and toasty light fruit ending with crisp acids.

2021 Kistler Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley): Clear medium red, crushed black fruit, plums and white pepper on the nose, firm, bright red cherry fruit, tannins and acids are balanced.

2023 Black Stallion Estate Pinot Noir (Los Caneros): Opaque medium red, juicy red fruit on the nose, bright red fruit with roast meat notes on the finish, crisp acids and firm tannins, still young.

Union Grands Crus Bordeaux New York City 2025

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

The Union Grand Crus Bordeaux was founded in 1973 and currently has 132 Chateaux members covering 14 appellations. The Union promotes the Grand Cru wines of its members with over 80 worldwide events.

In the beginning of each year, the Union tours the United States to introduce the newly released vintage. On January 20th the tour stopped New York City with both a tasting for the trade in the afternoon and another tasting for consumers in the evening. As in years past, the event was held at the Cipriani event space located at 120 East 42nd Street in midtown Manhattan across from Grand Central Terminal.

Bordeaux is a huge wine producing region with over 6 times the vine area planted than Napa Valley. Everyone focuses on the top tier wines, but you can grab a nice bottle for everyday drinking especially in good vintages, without having to pay the sky-high prices that the top tier wines charge.

Bordeaux had a string of some excellent vintages in the late ’90’s and early 2000’s but the last few vintages have been challenging for them, and I didn’t know what to expect at the tasting. From what I understood, 2022 was a “weird” year. The weather for the year had all the hallmarks of turning into a lousy vintage, but the wines turned out much better than anyone anticipated.

Reading the reviews from wine writers, the word “fresh” popped up very often. I meant that to mean the juicy, bright red fruit and moderate tannins and acidity that I was getting from many of the wines that I sampled. I didn’t get the teeth chatting tannins from most of the wines that I’ve gotten in other years. Of course, there were wines with firm tannins and brisk acids and knowing that these wines are still very young and need some more time in the bottle to flesh out.

I thought the vintage came out somewhere in the middle in style, I was pleasantly surprised and think that many of the wines will be for early drinking,

Vintage 2022

Saint-Julien

Chateau Beychevelle: Opaque dark red, purple rim, dark chocolate and sweet fruit on the nose, juicy and chewy ending with moderate tannins and acidity.

Chateau Branaire-Ducru: Opaque medium red, brick rim, sweet tar and cigarette smoke on the nose, juicy, earthy fruit ending with moderate tannins and acidity.

Chateau Gloria: Opaque dark red, perfume of violets and white pepper, juicy dark fruit, moderate tannins with tart notes at the end.

Chateau Gruaud Larose: Clear medium red, purple rim, dusty black fruit on the nose, juicy, tight red fruit, tight finish.

Chateau Leoville Poyferre: Opaque dark red, purple rim, tar and crushed dark fruit on the nose, tight fruit with crushed rock notes, very firm finish.

Chateau Talbot: Clear medium red, crushed red fruit, green herbs and milk chocolate on the nose, juicy and dusty red fruit ending with moderate tannins.

Chateau Lagrange: Clear medium red, graphite on the nose, dusty fruit ending with crisp tannins.

Saint-Estephe

Chateau de Pez: Clear medium red, brick rim, tar and leather on the nose, juicy with leather notes, silky tannins and finish.

Chateau Phelan Segur: Clear medium red, black licorice and earth on the nose, chewy black fruit with dusty, silky moderate tannins.

Chateau Cos Labory: Clear medium red, tarry roast meat and pencil shavings on the nose, juicy red fruit ending with lip smacking tannins.

Pauillac

Chateau d’Armailac: Clear medium red, dirty tar on the nose, chewy black fruit ending with very firm tannins.

Chateau Pichon Baron: Opaque medium red, brick rim, spicy dark chocolate on the nose, juicy dark fruit with chocolate notes, moderate tannins and acidity.

Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande: Clear medium red, dusty red fruit on the nose, juicy black licorice fruit, silky tannins, long finish.

Pomerol

Chateau Clinet: Clear medium brick, dusty stone and white pepper on the nose, juicy red fruit with silky tannins and moderate acids.

Chateau Gazin: Opaque dark red, purple rim, crushed red fruit and green herbs on the nose, very tight.

Chateau Rouget: Opaque dark purple, closed nose of dark fruit, sweet tar and cigarette smoke, juicy black licorice ending fruit with firm but silky tannins.

Saint-Emilion

Chateau Canon: Opaque dark purple, closed nose of sweet red fruit, juicy red fruit with moderate, crisp tannins.

Chateau Canon-La-Gaffeliere: Clear medium red, dusty, dirty nose, juicy red fruit with dark chocolate notes ending with moderate tannins and acid.

Clos Fourtet: Opaque medium purple, purple rim, crushed black fruit on the nose, juicy red fruit with silky tannins.

Chateau Franc Mayne: Clear medium red, dirty, stinky nose, chewy red fruit, silky, juicy tannins with some bitter almond notes on the finish, well balanced.

Haut-Medoc

Chateau de Camensac: Opaque dark red, purple rim, sweet tar and dirt on the nose, chewy, tarry fruit with silky tannins and moderate to low acidity.

Chateau Beaumont: Opaque dark red, purple rim, closed nose of sweet spice, chewy black fruit with barnyard notes, firm tannins.

Chateau Coufran: Clear medium to dark red, closed nose, chewy with bitter almond notes, tannic.

Pessac-Leognan

Domaine de Chevalier: Opaque dark red, roast nuts and violet on the nose, very tight and tannic at this point.

Chateau Haut-Bailly: Clear medium red, barnyard notes on the nose, juicy with lip smacking tannins.

Chateau Pape Clement: Opaque medium red, purple rim, spicy toast on the nose, juicy red fruit ending with crisp acids.

Margaux

Chateau Kirwan: Clear medium red, crushed red fruit on the nose, juicy with bitter cherry notes on the firm tannins.

Chateau Prieure-Lichine: Clear medium brick, tarry dirt on the nose, chewy red leather fruit with dark chocolate notes ending with moderate tannins and acids.

Sauternes & Barsac

From what I sampled, 2022 seems like a good year for the botrytis wines, most were nicely balanced.

Chateau Bastor-LamontagneChateau Doisy Daene
Chateau Doisy-VedrinesChateau Guiraud
Chateau Suduiraut

Zachys Burgundy Grand Tasting

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

On September 14th, Zachys wine shop held another one of their comprehensive wine tastings at their retail store which is located at 30 Midland Avenue in Port Chester, New York.

The event was the Burgundy Grand Tasting. It was a walk around tasting of over 30 selections of wines to showcase the “diversity and complexity” of the region and to experience “the essence of Burgundy’s terroir”.

The majority of the wines were from the 2021 vintage which was a “challenging” vintage. A challenging year usually means that the grapes didn’t have the opportunity to ripen which in Burgundy means that many of the wines come out thin with high acids.

It was an excellent tasting of wines from one of the premier wine regions of the world, but I have to admit that I was struggling to find a red that I would enjoy having a full glass of, I did try some nice whites though.

Some of what I sampled:

White

2016 J.Michel Guillon Santenay Blanc: Clear medium gold, ripe peaches on the nose, juicy, moderate fruit ending with good acidity.

2017 J. Michel Guillon Marsannay Blanc “Champs Pedrix”: Clear light gold, roast almonds on the nose, nice fruit with a firm, spicy finish.

2021 J. Drouhin Meursault: Clear light gold, perfume of tropical fruits, moderate fruit with firm acids on the balanced finish.

2022 JJ Vincent Pouilly Fuisse “Marie Antoinette”: Light gold, tropical fruit notes on the nose, moderate juicy fruit with some toast notes on the finish, nice balance.

2022 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc “Oncle Vincent”: Clear, almost colorless, lime notes on the nose, juicy, citrusy and toasty, good grip.

Red

2020 J. Drouhin Corton: Clear medium purple, pretty perfume of smokey crushed raspberry, silky red leather fruit ending with firm tannins.

2021 Domaine Gerard Julien & Fils Nuits St Georges: Clear medium brick, red cherry on the nose, moderate silky fruit, balanced finish.

2021 J. Faiveley Bourgogne Pinot Noir: Clear light purple, perfume of sweet red leather and smoke, dusty fruit with crushed rock notes, tart finish.

2021 Domaine Parent Pommard “Les Epenots”: Clear light brick, perfume of tar and sandalwood, silky, red tarry fruit, firm grip.

2021 J. Faiveley Bourgogne: Clear light purple, perfume of sweet red leather and smoke, dusty, crushed rocks on the fruit, tart acids.

2021 J. Faiveley Mercurey “La Framboisiere” Monopole: Clear light purple, sweet smokey tar on the nose, plummy with tight leather fruit.

2021 J. Drouhin Clos des Mouches: Clear light purple with a spicy, tarry, smokey nose, silky red fruit with stone notes, firm with a long finish.

2021 Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin “Mes Cinq Terroirs”: Clear light purple, closed nose of roast meat, moderate tight red fruit with a tight and firm finish.

Vinous Icons Tasting NYC 2024

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

Vinous/Explore All Things Wine is an online wine Magazine run by Antonio Galloni that features articles of all things wine and wine reviews.

On March 1 & 2, they held their first annual Icons tasting which consisted of wine dinners and a walk around tasting. The event was held at the Altman Building venue space at 135 West 18th Street in Manhattan which is next door to its sister venue, the Metropolitan Pavillion. Both the dinners and the walk around tasting were open to consumers and to members of the trade and I attended both walk around tastings.

This was an amazing event for the sheer quantity of high-end quality wines from around the world. Most of the wineries in attendance were from the United State, France and Italy with a handful of wineries on hand from Australia, Spain, Argentina, Chile and even China. Most of the wineries poured different wines or vintages each of the two days so there was the opportunity to sample a wide range of wines.

As is the case in these types of tastings with such a large selection of top end wines, I narrowed my choices and focused my energies on California Cabernet and Bordeaux.

Hopefully this will be an annual event from now on.

Some of my highlights:

New World

2019 Brion Cabernet Sauvignon “Sleeping Lady Vineyard” (Napa Valley): Black with a purple rim, earth and tree bark on the nose, concentrated silky black fruit, nicely balanced with a long finish.

2019 Brion Proprietary Red Blend “Ecotone Vineyard” (Napa Valley): Black with a red rim, perfume of crushed black fruit and fresh herbs, thick and juicy with good structure on the finish.

2017 Cornell Cabernet Sauvignon “Cornell Estate” (Sonoma): Black with a purple rim, roast meat on the nose, dense and chewy fruit with chewy tannins and a long finish.

2014 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red with a purple rim, saline and pickle juice on the nose, silky red fruit with saline notes on the balanced finish.

2021 Pahlmeyer Merlot (Napa Valley): Black with a purple rim, oak and tobacco on the nose, thick and chewy with mint notes with silky, firm tannins.

2013 Plumpjack Winery Cabernet Sauvignon “Oakville” (Napa Valley): Opaque black with a brick rim, warm leather and dark chocolate on the nose, sweet mont and red fruit, silky tannins.

2018 Realm Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “The Bard” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red with a brick rim, ripe slate and dark fruit on the nose, chewy, dense leather fruit with dusty, silky tannins.

2009 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs Red Blend 1.5L (Dry Creek Valley): Opaque dark red with a brick rim, pretty perfume of sweet violets, chewy and minty with dusty tannins, long finish.

2016 Ridge Vineyards “Monte Bello” Blend (Santa Cruz Mtns): Opaque dark red with a brick rim, sweet perfume of tar and violets, silky fruit with some astringency on the finish.

2013 Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Hillside Select” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red with a purple rim, dried herbs and mint on the nose, juicy, dark chocolate fruit, gritty tannins, nice balance.

2016 Stag’s Leap Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “SLV” (Napa Valley): Opaque black with a purple rim, dark leather and roasted nuts on the nose, chewy dark chocolate fruit, silky tannins, long finish.

2016 Stag’s Leap Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “FAY” (Napa Valley): Opaque black with a purple rim, crushed black fruit and red roses on the nose, concentrated black fruit, dusty tannins.

2021 Tor Cabernet Sauvignon “Beckstoffer To Kalon BFD” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red with a purple rim, crushed black fruit on the nose, juicy with coffee and roast meat notes on the fruit, dusty and silky tannins.

2012 Vine Hill Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon “VHR” (Napa Valley): Black with a brick rim, pretty perfume of sweet violets, tar and leather, silky red fruit with a great balance.

2020 Vina Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon “Puente Alton Vineyard” (Maipo Valley): Opaque medium red, crushed green herbs on the nose, tight with bright red fruit.

Old World

2016 Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux): Opaque medium red, closed nose of mint and earth, chewy red fruit with bitter almond on the long and balanced finish.

2015 Domaine De La Chapelle “Hermitage La Chapelle” (Rhone): Opaque dark red to black with a brick rim, closed nose of roast meat, juicy and chewy black fruit with firm tannins on the great balance.

2016 Chateau Canon (St Emillion): Opaque medium red, big nose of smoke and roast nuts, tight red fruit, firm tannins.

2018 Chateau La Gaffeliere (St Emilion): Clear medium red, perfume of barnyard on the nose, chewy with gritty tannins on the long finish.

2016 Chateau Larcis Ducase (St Emilion): Clear medium brick, smoky toast on the nose, tight and concentrated fruit, silky tannins with bitter almonds on the finish.

2010 Chateau Montrose (St Estephe): Clear medium red, brick rim, pretty perfume of slate, mint and red roses, silky dark red fruit with a dusty and balanced long finish.

2019 Chateau Montrose (St Estephe): Clear medium red with a purple rim, perfume of roast meat and crushed red fruit, juicy and thick with chalk notes on the dusty and balanced finish.

2009 Chateau Pichon Longueville “Comtesse de Lalande” (Pauillac): Clear medium brick, warm cigarette smoke on the nose, dusty fruit with a smoky notes on the tight, but balanced finish.

2018 Chateau Pichon Longueville “Comtesse de Lalande” (Pauillac): Clear medium brick, tree bark on the nose, crushed red fruit with green herbs, earth and leather on the fruit, firm but balanced finish.

2014 Bodegas Vega Sicilia “Unico” (Ribera del Duero): Opaque medium red with a brick rim, tar and cigarette smoke on the nose, silky red fruit with bitter almond notes on the finish.

Union Grands Cru Bordeaux NYC 2024

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

The Union Grands Cru Bordeaux is an organization representing 131 Grand Cru Chateaux of Bordeaux. They promote the wines of the top estates with a yearly world tour showcasing the current vintage.

In the United States the tour has taken them to Miami, Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco and on January 22 to New York City. The wines they poured are the current release which is the 2021 vintage.

The event was held as it has been for several years now at Cipriani at 110 West 42nd Street in midtown Manhattan. Cipriani is an event space housed in a former back that was built when banks were built to impress with vaulted ceilings and lots of marble.

The wines at the tasting were still very young at this point, which I understand but it is a good way to get an overview of that particular vintage and on how the vintage is coming along and on how the wines may age in the long term.

Bordeaux has been lucky with a string of very good vintages in the past few years. In good vintages there is so much good juice grown in that region that there is plenty of good wine coming out from even the third, fourth tier and cru bourgeois estates.

Unfortunately, that streak came to an end with the 2021 vintage. It was a challenging and uneven year. For the most part I was getting a lot of tart, red cherry juice notes on many of the wines with nothing anywhere ready to drink at this point. 

Fortunately, when things are not so good in the vineyards for the regular wines means that the conditions were good in Sauterne and Barsac for the Botrytis mold to grow. There were about half the producers pouring these dessert wines at this event that they’ve had in the past but what I tried was well balanced.

Some of what I sampled:

Pessac-Leognan

Chateau CorbonnieuxDomaine de Chevalier
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte

Saint Emillion

Chateau CanonChateau Canon La Gaffeliere
Chateau La GaffeliereClos Fourtet
Chateau Pavie Macquin

Pomerol

Chateau BeauregardChateau Le Bon Pasteur
Chateau ClinetChateau Le Gay
Chateau Petit Village

Margaux

Chateau Brane CantenacChateau Dauzac
Chateau Cantenac BrownChateau Kirwan
Chateau Prieure LichineChateau Rauzan Gassies
Chateau Siran

Saint Julien

Chateau BeychevelleChateau Branaire Ducru
Chateau GloriaChateau Gruaud Larose
Chateau LagrangeChateau Leoville Barton
Chateau Leoville PoyferreChateau Gloria

Pauillac

Chateau BatailleyChateau Clerc Milon
Chateau d’ArmailhacChateau Duhart Milon
Chateau Grand Puy DucasseChateau Haut Batailley
Chateau Lynch BagesChateau Lynch Moussas

Saint Estephe

Chateau Cos LoboryChateau Lafon Rochet
Chateau de Pez Chateau Phelan SEgur

Haut Medoc

Chateau Coufran

Sauternes/Barsac

Chateau Doisy DaeneChateau Guiraud
Chateau de Rayne VigneauChateau La Tour Blanche

Cruise Ship Tasting 2023

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

I recently went on a vacation. I wanted to check off another item on my bucket list one of which was to take a ship across the ocean.

I took a 13-day repositing cruise which is where the cruise ships touring European ports head to the Caribbean and South America for the Winter season.

The ship I booked on was the Norwegian Cruise Lines “Getaway” and we shipped off from Southhampton, England stopping at ports in France, Spain and Portugal before heading due West to our final destination, New York City.

If you’ve ever taken a cruise before then you know that there are several restaurants on board and that there are professional Sommelier on hand to help guests with their wine orders.

On this cruise, those Somms held wine tasting classes and I attended a few of them.

This was one of those classes and at this class and they poured three French wines paired with cheese.

2021 LaDoucette Pouilly-Fume

Medium gold with a greenish tint, green herbs and honey notes on the nose, medium bodied with balanced acidity ending with some asparagus notes on the finish. Paired with goat cheese.

2022 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages

Clear dark purple, crushed rock. crushed raspberry and some leather on the nose, fruity, dry and chalky with nice acidity. Paired with Brie.

2022 Cellier des Princes Chateauneuf du Pape

Clear medium red with an amber rim, cooked vegetable on the nose, tight, dry with licorice notes ending with firm, toasty tannins. Paired with Camembert.

James Suckling’s Great Wines of the World NYC 2023

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

The James Suckling Great Wines of the World tasting event took place on June 15 & 16 and was held at the Altman Building event space at 135 West 18th Street in Manhattan.

James Suckling is a journalist, wine and cigar critic that has established online wine and cigar related websites.

This was a two day walk around tasting of highly rated wines from 195 producers from the top wine regions of the world.

As per usual when I attend a tasting with this volume of wines, I focused on Bordeaux and Napa Valley Cabernet but sampled wines from other regions as well.

Old World

2012 Bertani Amarone (Veneto): Clear light brick, earth and dark chocolate on the nose, silky black leather on the fruit, great balance.

2015 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc (Piedmont): Clear light brick, toasty tar on the nose with dusty fruit ending with firm tannins.

2015 Chateau Leoville Las Case (St Julien): Clear medium brick, pretty nose of tar and leather, tight red fruit ending in mouth puckering tannins.

2016 Chateau Malatric Lagraviere (Graves): Opaque medium red, ripe crushed black fruit on the nose with silky red fruit and firm tannins.

2016 Phelan Segur (St Estephe): Opaque medium red, dusty crushed rocks on the nose with dusty black fruit ending with silky tannins.

2017 Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany): Clear medium red, smoky red cherry on the nose, silky and spicy fruit with a long finish.

2017 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany): Clear light red, barnyard notes on the nose, tight with earth notes on the fruit, nice balance.

2018 Phelan Segur (St Estephe): Clear dar red with a brick rim, tobacco and graphite on the nose, tight dusty fruit with bitter cherry notes on the long finish.

2018 Chateau Meyney (St Estephe): Opaque dark red, ripe camphor on the nose, dark and juicy with bitter almond notes, long finish.

2018 Chateay D’Issan (Margaux): Clear dark red, closed nose of strawberry. dusty, bright red fruit, good balance.

2018 Chateau Gran Puy Ducasse (Paulliac): Opaque medium red, tar and ripe black fruit on the nose, dusty, silky red fruit with a balanced finish.

New World

2009 Clos de los Siete (Mendoza): Opaque dark red, crushed ripe red fruit on the nose, chewy dark red fruit, silky tannins.

2017 Secret Door Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Vally): Opaque dark red, tar and ripe red fruit on the nose, juicy, silky black fruit with a long finish and nicely balance.

2018 Newton Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Mt Veeder (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, dried herbs and crushed rocks on the nose, concentrated and silky ending with firm tannins.

2019 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon “Red Rock Terrace” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red. smoky black fruit on the nose, silky bright red fruit with a tarry, balanced finish.

2019 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon “Volcanic Hill” (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red with a purple rim, perfume of tar and crushed rocks, juicy fruit with tar and black licorice notes ending with a tarry, moderate to long finish.

2019 Outpost Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mtn. (Napa Valley): Opaque dark red, closed nose of dirt and dark chocolate, chewy, dark chocolate fruit, with a good grip

2019 BV Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Reserve (Napa Valley): Opaque medium red. minty dark chocolate on the nose, concentrated with dark chocolate notes ending with silky tannins.

2019 BV Cabernet Sauvignon “George de Latour (Napa Valley): Opaque medium red with a purple rim, dirty camphor on the nose, tight, concentrated dusty fruit with a good grip and a long finish.

2020 Garzon Single Vineyard Tannat (Uraguay): Opaque dark red, smoky dark chocolate on the nose, chewy fruit with slate notes and silky tannins.

2022 Chacra Pinot Noir (Patagonia): Clear light purple, crushed blueberry on the nose with crushed blueberry fruit ending with nice silky tannins.

La Paulée de New York 2023

Published on by Bruno DonaggioLeave a comment

La Paulée is a centuries old tradition of the end of harvest feast for the vintners and workers. The modern version began in 1923 when the Mayor of Meursault in Burgundy invited friends from the nearby domains to his winery for the celebration.

This tradition was brought to the new world in 2000 when the Daniel Johnnes, the sommelier of Montrachet restaurant at the time, created the modern-day version in New York City.

It began as a one-day event and is now a week-long event this year from February 24 to March 4. It’s a series of wine tastings and wine dinners culminating with the Grand Tasting on Saturday March 4.

I attended the Grand Tasting on Saturday where over 100 white and red Burgundy were poured from the 2020 vintage which is the latest vintage to be released.

The event was held at the Chelsea Piers sports complex in Pier 60 restaurant overlooking the Hudson River on the west side on Manhattan.

No one would call this vintage “opulent” by any means. I thought that the reds had some nice red fruit but, not surprisingly, very hard edged at this stage. I would love to taste them a few years down the road after they have had a chance to settle down.

The whites on the other hand, for the most part I was getting very pretty aromas but with very light fruit and good acidity. I suppose light and delicate would be a good way to explain them.

In any case it was an enjoyable afternoon drinking some of the best wines in the world.

2020 Vintage

Caroline Morey Chassagne Montrachet “Chambrees”: Light gold, big nose of tropical fruit with tropical fruit notes on the light finish. 

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru: Light gold, toast and honey on the nose, mouth filling moderate fruit, nice balance. 

William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos”: Light yellow, floral nose, moderate fruit with crisp acidity, good balance. 

Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune 1er Cru “Clos de la Mousse ” monopole: Clear light brick, soft leather on the nose, silky red fruit ending with silky tannins, long finish.  

David Duband Echezeaux Grand Cru: Clear medium purple, roasted vegetables on the nose, gritty and chalky black fruit ending with firm tannins.

Domaine Arnaud Mortet Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru: Clear medium purple, sweet, dusty spice on the nose, silky dark fruit ending with silky tannins. great balance.

Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru: Clear medium brick, leather and tobacco on the nose, silky dark fruit with a long, balanced finish. 

Domaine Duroche Gevrey Chambertin: Clear medium purple, sweet spices on the nose, silky red fruit and a great balance. 

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru “Santenots”: Clear medium red, forest floor on the nose, dense black fruit ending with big tannins on the long finish. 

Domaine Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru “Les Roncieres”: Clear medium purple, crushed black cherry and spice on the nose, juicy black fruit with firm tannins.

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. George 1er Cru “Les Saint Georges”: Opaque dark red, dark leather and mint on the nose, cherry dark fruit with gritty tannins and a nice mouth feel. 

Domaine Derey Freres Marsannay “Les Genelieres”: Clear medium purple, crushed red fruit on the nose, silky red fruit ending tight and tannic. 

Domaine Didier Fornerol Cote de Nuits Villages Rouge: Clear light purple, earth and wood on the nose, juicy with tight and silky tannins.

Domaine Didier Fornerol Cote de Nuits Village Rouge “La Rue des Foins”: Opaque medium purple, black leather on the nose, silky black fruit ending with silky tannins, great balance. 

Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay: Clear medium purple, nice perfume of tar, violets and tobacco with red fruit ending with firm tannins. 

Domaine Hudelot Noellat Vosne Romanee 1er Cru “Les Suchots”: Clear dark purple, crushed red fruit and damp earth on the nose with tight, dark fruit and gritty tannins. 

Domaine Meo Camuzet Nuit St. Georges 1er Cru “Aux Boudots”: Clear medium purple, roast meat on the nose, tight red fruit with crisp acids. 

Caroline Morey Chassagne Montrachet Rouge: Clear light purple, roast meat on the nose, silky fruit, tight tannins. 

Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru “Clos des Mouches”: Clear light purple, cherry and earth on the nose, juicy red fruit with leather notes, moderate tannins and acid.